Climate Control/Radio Problems

Checked all the fusible links. All checked out visually and the touch test as described in the FSM. I will be using a tester on them when I get access later this upcoming week. For visual reference, I snapped a picture of what I can feel the clicking coming from. I can feel the click each time pretty well on what my finger is touching but the black box behind it is even stronger when I feel it.
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Those solenoids control vacuum to the vent door actuators, and if they are clicking it most likely means you have a vacuum leak in one or more of the lines. I've got my dash out right now and am working on replacing one of the actuators. You can see my post about it here: http://z31performance.com/showthread…and-fix-a-flat

I don't think the radio problem and the clicking are related. Have you checked all the fuses on the fuse panel? Have you checked the fuse on the back of the radio itself?

Alright, I'll read over your post. Yes I did check all fuses on the fuse panel and all were good. I have an inline fuse on the power wire coming from the radio vs it having a spot for one on the back of the radio and that is good as well.

I should add that it does blow through the defrosters when I initially start the car. The climate control lights up but nothing is displayed on the screen.

A tip from a pro: Never use a test light. Just throw it away and by a multimeter. Autozone sells a great multimeter for $15. It is the gray Equus/Innova brand one.(It looks like this, only gray. http://www.iequus.com/Product/3300/H…MM-(10-MegOhm) Autozone must have their own version, as mine is a model 3306) I use it all day at work, and have for several years now. Anyway, I've never had to find both fuses for the radio on a z31, but there are two separate fuses. One controls the constant +12v, the other is accessory power. One fuse is often listed as something else, and doesn't mention the radio. Check every fuse, especially ones in the 10-20a range. The fusible links could also be suspect, as mentioned above. Either way, it should be a simple fix.

Well, there's a defrost override button that puts the system into defrost only mode… it's a small button just above the display next to the foot/cabin temp adjustment screw. If that button is activated there will be a amber light lit right next to it. If this is the problem, pressing that button should return the system to normal.

88-89 climate controls do not have that button

Thanks Tomakze! I'll need to go pick one up then. I personally am not a fan of Auto Zone but I'll make an exception in this case I will update this later in the week if I find anything or if I am still having troubles. It is an aftermarket head unit in there in by the way. I didn't know if anyone had picked up on that when I said I had taken the stereo out and taped off the wire ends.

Only reason I use Autozone is for their Duralast tools (Rebadged Kobalt tools for a cheaper price… in some cases.) and their rewards program. I find all parts stores have idiots in them, lol, might as well earn some credits for the trouble of dealing with them. Anyway, it's possible that multimeter may be somewhere else, but I'm not sure. The reason for the multimeter instead of the test light is because it is safe. Our cars aren't as computerized as some of the new ones, but there are still wires you wouldn't want to probe with a test light. Since test lights have current draw, (Meaning they require a certain amount of amperage to work) they can blow low current systems if probed. Computer wires especially. Even if it doesn't, it might find voltage on a low current wire, and light up. When you try to tap into it, however, what you are trying to power may kill the circuit. (The light will still illuminate at 6v. With a multimeter, you would know that was probably not a power source. The multimeter also doesn't use the circuit for power, since they have their own power source, so you can probe with reckless abandon… as long as it isn't in the "amperage" setting. Then you are completing a circuit.) Besides, Multimeters are cheap, and provide way more info than a test light ever could. Everyone in the world should own one. I used to have a test light, but have since thrown it away. To a pro, someone owning a test light is a sign of an amateur. When hiring, it is one of the questions I ask, lol. (I am the lead tech for the Geek Squad Install bay in my town.)

Sorry to ramble, but this is one of the few times I feel confidant about what I know. Most of the time I feel like a newb on this forum. I'm still learning the mechanical side of things. It's nice when I can actually impart some knowledge instead of only absorbing it, lol!!! I hope I've helped, and not annoyed you with info you don't care about. Once you get the multimeter, I can give you some tips on how to use it to figure out your problem, if you like.

Please, ramble on very useful information. Definitely something I didn't know before. I will shoot you a pm when I go and pick one up. Thanks buddy!

Any resolution on this problem? I am having basically the same problem. I had a reoccurring problem of my running lights not working. Recently, I pulled the center unit out, put in a 30 amp fuse into the illumination/clearance slot, and turned on the lights. Smoke began to emit from a blue wire with white stripe that was pinched inbetween the plastic screw housing of the clock and the metal frame it is fastened to in the back. I loosened the clock, got that wire and a green/white wire that was pinched in there as well loose. Wrapped the hole in the blue wire and refastened the green/white wires together. (not sure if they were together before or not but looked like they should be)

Then I tried the lights. The running lights stay on, but now I have a new problem-- the chime for the lights staying on, the ACC, the radio, and the clock all do not get power. I checked all fuses. It seems the memory isn't working either. The reason I say that is I have noticed the trip meter on the digi-dash keeps resetting everytime I turn the car off.

ZEric, did you ever find out what it was with yours? Or anyone else know of a specific wire/place I should test? I don't want to just start cutting and bypassing wires without having a good idea where to start. I know the yellow/green wire is the Accessory power wire but it seems that there is more than that that is not getting power.