Clutch and flywheel.

I found I can get a flywheel for an '86 Turbo through my work for $100. I don't know who it's made by though.
For a clutch should I just go with a stock one or do you guys recommend anything?

Only the 87-89 turbos have a 250mm flywheel.

Everything else turbo or NA has a 240mm flywheel.

Now for the confusing part. both 250mm and 240mm flywheels have the same outside diameter. The size difference is in the way the holes for the pressure plate are drilled and the step for the clutch disk is made.


I'm on my third clutch in 3 years on my 86T.

Started with a stock clutch with unknown miles when I bought it. Drove it till it started slipping.

Had the factory flywheel surfaced and put a stock Z32 clutch disk and pressure plate put on it. No matter how I played with it, it always seemed way to soft and would never engage till the pedal was almost all the way out.

On this last one I ended up with an 88NA flywheel I had surfaced flat and a Stage 2 clutch kit (pressure plate, disk, and throwout bearing) for a G35, and a Heavy Duty clutch fork from ASCO.


This one chatters a little bit and requires a real left leg to use, but I like the fact that you cann't really "slip" the clutch. It tends to be all or nothing.

I see. So would you recommend a stock clutch for a turbo? I've never driven a standard Z unfortunately but I love feel of my MR2 clutch.

Go for the stock one. It's probably the best for a DD.

There is no real comparison between an MR2 and a Z31. Just the front engine vs rear engine thing alone before the weight difference is so far apart.

Are you planning to upgrade the car later? Most of the DXD Clutches from Southbend have a very stock feel to them. It's only $100 more to step from a 300lb/ft clutch to a 400 lb/ft. Personally, if I were getting a flywheel I'd also get their steel flywheel along with the clutch, and also have them balance the assembly.

How much do they want for the flywheel though… I can possibly get a stock one for $106.99 from my work (Canadian Tire… Lol)

And yeah, I'm definitely considering some mods once the car is in the road (coils, e-fan, intercooler, BOV, boost controller, cams)
So looking at a clutch that can support that much power would be nice. Guessing 300 wtq isn't hard to get to with a boost controller so I'd be better off with the 400 wtq to be on the safe side.
On average how long does a clutch last? This will be my first really driven manual car as my MR2 has been off the road for a few years and has unknown mileage on the clutch. I'd like to say I'm pretty good at stick

Pricing is here. I also don't think it's a regular stock flywheel. Made of better steel I believe. http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/

As for how long the clutch lasts, that depends entirely on how you drive.

$400 is a lot of money for a flywheel compared to the 106.99 from my work. Is it really worth the extra $300? And I've seen Fidanza 11 pounders sell for $350 new. Would the money really be worth it? Car is 100% stock as it is right now and even when modded shouldn't the stock flywheel be able to hold 350 horse without an issue? For the clutch I think the stage 1 endurance looks about right, though it says "uses flywheel part number SBCNIS-4." which is their flywheel, will it still work with a stock flywheel?

You probably don't need their flywheel if it's going to be a street car. I believe it was intended for racing, to hold up to high rpm and other such abuse without grenading and taking out your trans and stuff like this stock one did: http://redz31.suomiz.net/pages/flywheel.html

Juwholyjeesus. That's a lot of carnage.

Your first sentence is reassuring but the rest is kind of confusing o-o

Should I just go with the expensive flywheel even if I never reach 300 whp?
The car is just a daily driver/spirited drives kind of car, that would probably never see 7000 RPM.

And thank you for all the information, I just really want to get this car on the road again.

Sorry, I meant if it's going to be a street driven car, and not lot of high RPM driving, a stock flywheel should be fine. I used that as an example because if you read it, he had it spun up to 7000rpm when the damage occured, which is beyond what the stock parts were designed to handle. As long as you stay within the stock RPM range, and aren't running it on a race track where it will see high rpm for long periods, the stock flywheel will do just fine. Really, as long as it doesn't go beyond the stock redline, I would think a stock flywheel would hold up to a fair amount of abuse. Of course it's entirely possible he just had a flywheel with some kind of internal defect, but after it shattered that's hard to determine.

To be honest though, your best bet would be to contact Southbend clutch and talk to them. They are very helpful and if you tell them what the goals for your car are, they should be able to point you in the right direction as far as clutch and flywheel selection.

MikeP has a tendency of spinning his stock rig up over 6500-7000 pretty often… stock fly's are fine, it's the lightweight Fidanza's you have to watch out for. pressure plate to flywheel balancing is a wise idea as well - if you plan to run hard often. but for standard street play, a stock fly will keep drivability better, and DXD clutches are great - you won't be disappointed. love mine. it's easier to get a clutch thats better than what you plan to do, in case you want to do more later!

Just to throw it out there, you could look for an Aasco lightweight flywheel, part #101715-11. My "Stillen" flywheel is actually an Aasco unit produced for Stillen, comparable to the Fidanza with replaceable friction surface and all. Not sure if you'll find it for less than $350 though.