E-Brake Repair
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Bates Z31Senior Member- 202
E-Brake Repair
So I just got back into a Z after many years. Itâs an 87 NA 2+0 5 Speed. One of the biggest issues it has is the E brake not working. Itâs actually the first car Iâve had that has e brake issues so it is a new territory for me.
The handle has nothing to it which is leading me to believe the cable broke. Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks. -
mwolvinmSenior Member- 249
Jack up the rear of the car. The e-brake cable connects to the rear calipers on the bottom side. Have someone actuate the handle and see if it's moving at the caliper end. If not, then it may well be a broken cable. If it is moving, then it may just need an adjustment.--------------
Legal stuff:
**Nissan Employee**
Any information shared is simply my own opinion and NOT the opinion of Nissan
not legal stuff:
'88 300ZX 2+2-- driving… just details left
'22 Q60RS-- I tell the wife it's hers…
'87 Chaparral bowrider-- the next project
'00 Corolla-- kids car.
'14 E-350-- Gotta haul those kids in something. -
Bates Z31Senior Member- 202
Thanks for the response.Originally posted by mwolvinm View PostJack up the rear of the car. The e-brake cable connects to the rear calipers on the bottom side. Have someone actuate the handle and see if it's moving at the caliper end. If not, then it may well be a broken cable. If it is moving, then it may just need an adjustment.
Sounds simple enough. How difficult is the cable replacement? I have the FSM just to get a general idea what Iâm working with but have yet to find a guide on replacing it for a Z31.
Also is the adjustment piece under the car in the back by the rear subframe?
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Z_KarmaAdministrator- 3318
Cables are relatively easy. Un-bolt the handle cable at the union just in front of the subframe. The rear cables run through guide tubes that i find easier to just unbolt
than to try to push them through while they are still attached at the caliper. Once they are free of those tubes, release them at the caliper. Install is reverse.
Replacement cables are available through Rockauto or Amazon
Left: Wagner BC138673 (Cheaper on Amazon)
Right: Wagner BC138671 (Cheaper on RockAuto)

84 AE/Shiro #683/Shiro #820/84 Turbo
- 1 like
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Bates Z31Senior Member- 202
Awesome. Thanks for the info! I think I should be able to handle this if I have to. I canât even look at the issue because it is raining nonstop in NJ right now. Iâm hoping I donât have to replace the whole thing but if I do so be it. I just donât want to drive it until it is working. Should be ordering an exhaust and tires tonight, the other major things I need. The stock exhaust is completely rotted. Iâm hoping the Y pipe is okay though.Originally posted by Z_Karma View PostCables are relatively easy. Un-bolt the handle cable at the union just in front of the subframe. The rear cables run through guide tubes that i find easier to just unbolt
than to try to push them through while they are still attached at the caliper. Once they are free of those tubes, release them at the caliper. Install is reverse.
Replacement cables are available through Rockauto or Amazon
Left: Wagner BC138673 (Cheaper on Amazon)
Right: Wagner BC138671 (Cheaper on RockAuto)
The car also also seems to have a draw at the headlight. Is this a common issue? My other Zs never had it.
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Z_KarmaAdministrator- 3318
If rust is an issue, i'd start inspecting ground points on the engine bay harness, and any connections on that engine bay harness in general.
Sometimes you can rehab brake cables by squirting some silicone lube down the cable and try to work it back
and forth, but I've found it's only a temporary solution, especially in rainy conditions. I've had them freeze before because of moisture in the cable sheath.
84 AE/Shiro #683/Shiro #820/84 Turbo -
Bates Z31Senior Member- 202
Rust thankfully isnât an issue. A previous owner did some rust repair on the quarter panels, and the undercarriage is in pretty good shape. Just the exhaust rotted away. The engine bay is pretty damn clean. Iâll get some pictures when the rain lets up. It might be the cleanest Z rust wise Iâve ever owned. My 86 was clean too but the rear quarters on both side were gone. My 84 was just a rotted mess as was my 76. I did some extensive rust repair on my 78 but it became too much to handle so I got rid of it. Actually traded it to MichaelP like 7 years ago, not sure if he still posts here.Originally posted by Z_Karma View PostIf rust is an issue, i'd start inspecting ground points on the engine bay harness, and any connections on that engine bay harness in general.
Sometimes you can rehab brake cables by squirting some silicone lube down the cable and try to work it back
and forth, but I've found it's only a temporary solution, especially in rainy conditions. I've had them freeze before because of moisture in the cable sheath.
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mwolvinmSenior Member- 249
Thanks for the links to the cables Z_Karma… I actually have a bad one myself that needs replacing. I can engage the calipers just fine.... but disengagement requires a trip under the car with a hammer to the driver side only. I discovered it wasn't the caliper when I unhooked the cable over the weekend.
Bates-- I thought rust holes in the exhaust were there to help the car pass emissions…
--------------
Legal stuff:
**Nissan Employee**
Any information shared is simply my own opinion and NOT the opinion of Nissan
not legal stuff:
'88 300ZX 2+2-- driving… just details left
'22 Q60RS-- I tell the wife it's hers…
'87 Chaparral bowrider-- the next project
'00 Corolla-- kids car.
'14 E-350-- Gotta haul those kids in something.
- 1 like
-
Bates Z31Senior Member- 202
At 25+ years old, we donât have inspections anymore. I actually just ordered a new CM exhaust and test pipe and some fresh rubber for stock wheels. My buddy is grabbing me about $200 in tune up parts as well. The Z will be going under the knife and will finally see the road again very soon.Originally posted by mwolvinm View PostThanks for the links to the cables Z_Karma… I actually have a bad one myself that needs replacing. I can engage the calipers just fine.... but disengagement requires a trip under the car with a hammer to the driver side only. I discovered it wasn't the caliper when I unhooked the cable over the weekend.
Bates-- I thought rust holes in the exhaust were there to help the car pass emissions…
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Bates Z31Senior Member- 202
Quick update. I found the ebrake culprit but canât fix it yet. By the adjustment near the rear crossmember, the equalizer had gotten destroyed so the second cable leading to the calipers is not currently mated to the first cable coming off the ebrake handle.
If anyone knows where where I can get this little piece please let me know and thanks for your help.Comment

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