Dont have a key how do i get one made???

  • #1

    Dont have a key how do i get one made???

    So here is the situation! i just baught a 1986 300zx na from a guy and he could not find the Key! so now im sitting with a nice lawn ordimate till i can get a key. so i was wonderng if i need a new ignition or i can use the vin to get a key made? thanks Ryan
  • #2
    Check the glove box lid, should be a code starting with an X. This is the key code, give it to a Nissan dealer for a new key.
    - VG30DET (HE341) 86 300ZX - 1982 280ZX Turbo - Headered NA 1986 300ZX 2+2 - 2000 Xterra -
  • #3
    going outside right now to check it out thanks for the tip man!
  • #4
    If it's not there, remove the rear hatch lock (easy removal) and take it to a locksmith.



    1988 300ZX Turbo, Shiro Special #760
    1988 300ZX Turbo Automatic (wife's car)
    1991 Hard-body 2WD

    http://zccw.org/zccw/?page_id=1215
  • #5
    is the lock keys the same as the ignition key? there was no code in the glove box
  • #6
    ryanz31 wrote: is the lock keys the same as the ignition key? there was no code in the glove box
    Yes, this isn't an American crapbox.
    - VG30DET (HE341) 86 300ZX - 1982 280ZX Turbo - Headered NA 1986 300ZX 2+2 - 2000 Xterra -
    • 1 like
  • #7
    so i removed they rearhatch lock so now i just ask the locksmith for a key to fit? haha sounds too good to be true! im sad i couldnt find a number in the glove box! im praying this works! well guys i apperate the help greatly! cant wait to get it started up! haha
  • #8
    Yes, it's that easy. Get two keys made and put one of them away.



    1988 300ZX Turbo, Shiro Special #760
    1988 300ZX Turbo Automatic (wife's car)
    1991 Hard-body 2WD

    http://zccw.org/zccw/?page_id=1215
  • #9
    Hopefully it actually runs lol

    http://www.utahzclub.com

    Do you type by throwing chopsticks at a keyboard that is spinning or something?

    Troll, troll, troll your post, Gently down the feed. Merrily, merrily troll along, A life is what you need!
  • #10
    ryanz31 wrote: … so now i just ask the locksmith for a key to fit? haha sounds too good to be true!…
    Props to the locksmiths, they're that good. A story: The t-tops were locked on my '86 when I bought it - no t-top keys - and it being a total non-running project the interior was pretty much removed by the time I got around to calling in the locksmith. Kindof limited space to pick an overhead lock to begin with, but poor guy couldn't even sit down. Still got 'em unlocked within a couple minutes though. Took them and one of the car's lock cylinders back to his shop (I only had one worn out key and no key code) and had a full set of keys ready in no time. Didn't charge me that much either…
  • #11
    I took a lock cylinder over to a locksmith about 2 months ago and got a key made in an hour for $25. I was told to bring them the passenger door handle though… the locksmith was wrong about a code being on it. I could have just brought in the hatch lock.
    Some people never go crazy. What truly horrible lives they must lead.
  • #12
    This is an old thread but in an effort to help others I am going to add a few things. First, GOOD GOD, it NEVER occurred to me to remove the hatch lock cylinder. (someone actually stole my two keys. Not worth getting into the story how. It happened. The car was and is in my garage in Pagosa Springs, CO. I was at other home in KCKS) In any case, I went to my local lock smith and he advised me about the sticker in the glove box. Yup, it was there. A friend went in and took the picture and it did begin with X. However the second digit was unreadable but looked like a 6. When the key was made, it didn't work. SO, I went to alternative plan B, the dreaded removal of the door panel and getting at the lock cylinder. IT IS SUPPOSED TO BE ON DRIVER'S SIDE, NOT PASSENGER.
    Those little plugs covering the screws holding on the arm rest: impossible to get out....until I remembered something written elsewhere: Heat them up. Carefully using a light (LED's won't work. They don't make enough heat) Once warmed, I used a plastic tool loaned to me by local locksmith. PIECE OF CAKE. So, I am this far: I have the panel off and I'm ready to take the next step. I THINK I have identified the two bolts that I need to remove. I'll let you know. It is NOT necessary to have the window down, as one site claimed. The door panel comes off very nicely, once the arm rest is removed. (Don't forget to take the screw out of the piece that surrounds the inside door handle. Then pry the panel off using plastic devices and perhaps, very carefully, a claw hammer). To be continued, perhaps with pictures.

    Comment

    • Dunkine
      #12.1
      Dunkine commented
      12-23-2018, 08:35 PM
      Hmm, I might have to do this for my hatch lock on my 89, it's keyed different than the doors. Would be nice to not have to always open the drivers door to open the hatch.
  • #13
    I got the plastic screw covers out with a flathead screwdriver once. Granted, it probably the best tool to use if you're uptight about your trim pieces having any kind of marks on em.
  • #14
    Just for future reference, if anyone ever has this problem and the ignition and doors do not have the same lock cylinder, you can always take the ignition switch out from behind the lock cylinder and use a screwdriver or some other piece of metal and touch the contacts until you find the one for the starter. Or if you have another ignition switch just unplug the original one and plug in the new one and touch the contacts. (if you don't feel like ripping out the ignition switch lock cylinder yet) I've done this on a few of my Zs that didn't have keys for when I first bought them.