Wide body kit/rear quarter panel install

Seventh step: After its all hard and dry remove screws and carefully drill crater just deep enough so that pop rivet will sit just below surface.

Awesome, a writeup heh

Now if only you made bolt-on versions …

I'm sure these could be modified slightly for a bolt-on application.

Definitely putting these on the bucket list though.

Eighth step: Cover with resin putty.

Sweet writeup! Any intention of making those rear bumpers or a copy of that pantera hatch?

The hatch is custom made similar but different from a pantera/Yamato hatch but I do still have parts of it in my basement. The rear bumper is easy to make and I could walk anyone through that!

Here is how I did mine, using the Mutantz fenders but with a "rivet on" approach.

1) Like MutantZ shows above, Cut the OEM when arch on the rear fender to get excellent wheel clearance. you want to cut both the inner and outer layers using a die-grinder. After cutting, you want to re-attach the inner metal layer to the outer metal layer. Some people weld the two together. Instead I squirted 3m 8115 panel epoxy in between these two pieces and then riveted them together with steel rivets. Then seal it up with etch and rust preventing primer.



2) Now begin fitting the Over fender. I marked the fenders for even rivet spacing. Once I had the fender in position, I drilled thru the fender into the steel quarter and placed the rivets. At first I just put one rivet in, then check the positioning.. You will need to sand the backside of the overs to get them to lay nicely against the body. Plan your rivet spacing carefully so it looks even/clean.

I use Cleco fasteners and cleco pliers tool from Aircraft spruce. These are temporary rivet pins that you can take on and off easily. This is a must have in my opinion and they were like $15 or $20.




3) Aside from sanding the backside of the over, you will also need to trim the edges to match your body lines, as MutantZ leaves the edges of the fenders a little long on purpose. A coarse file makes quick work of the fiberglass..

4) once you have the fender fully fitted and riveted in position, its time to fit the side skirt. Mark and cut off the bottom of the overfender and use more 3M panel body to attach it to the skirt. then smooth with fiberglass and kitty-hair bondo.




5) Now time for block sanding and smoothing. Fill any obvious areas with bondo and smooth. Then Spray the fender with high-build epoxy primer. And block sand. Rinse and repeat! Here you see the primer in gray, the bondo in green, and the overfender in black. you want to do this while they are riveted on, as they distort and flex compared to laying on the ground.



After rinse and repeating 10x…


6) Finally, attach with real, steel rivets and spray your sealer coat.


6.5) for the fuel door, I bent the zenki door into a new curvature, and extended the OEM hinge. it doesn't match perfectly but I think it looks better than the sunken fuel door. There are probably better ways to do it (like shave the door and put in a fuel cell!)

7) And now you are ready to top coat. I put the blend line halfway up the B and C pillar, but it didn't come out that great. Suggestion to paint the entire roof of the car and A pillar, so that there is no blend line.



8) finally buff out. If you did a nice job they should look pretty smooth.


and finished:

Excellent Mike, thanks for sharing your approach.