Messed-up 30A… help with diagnosis?


  • Messed-up 30A… help with diagnosis?

    Okay, this happened earlier in the summer but I was too embarassed and ashamed of myself to ask for help here, mostly because it was my frustration/bad temper/stupidity that caused this issue.

    After I thought I had my clutch issues sorted out, I tried to drive home from washing Zoey and the clutch pedal suddenly had almost no pressure. Stupidly, I thought I could limp her home. In retrospect, I should've left her there and come back with the tools I needed to bleed the clutch hydraulics again. Anyway, once I got onto the street, clutch pedal pressure went from little to none, but since I was already moving, I thought that if I drove carefully and matched revs to shift, I'd be alright. I had to stop at a red light though, and getting her rolling required a pretty heavy hand on the shifter to get her in gear. I managed to get home and into the garage, and I got a more mechanically-inclined buddy to give me a hand in bleeding the system properly. Once we got the clutch working normally again, I tried to go for a drive and realized the shifter was really loose and sloppy. It took several tries to get into reverse; same deal with first and second gear. Third gear I could barely find, and fourth/fifth not at all. The shifter moves around A LOT and obviously doesn't feel notchy like it's supposed to. My buddy was going to remove the shifter plate to see if anything obvious was broken, but we didn't have the right tools on hand so we called it a day.

    I was on a forced vacation from work for the last two months, and I promised myself I wouldn't spend any more money on Zoey until I was working again. I'm back up north now on a new project (better money and less QC work!) and suffering from pretty debilitating Z31 withdrawl, so I figured I'd describe the issue and see if it sounds familiar to anyone. My buddy thinks the tranny is shot and that the synchros are broken; that's why it has trouble shifting into the lower gears. The thing is though, I can't shift into the upper gears AT ALL (even when the engine isn't running) and there's no problem shifting into the lower gears once I wiggle the stick around enough to actually find the gear I'm looking for. I didn't force the tranny into any gear other than 1st, so I was wondering why reverse and second would also be affected. I don't know enough about transmissions to know for sure, but based on the symptoms I didn't think the diagnosis made sense.

    Could it just be something as simple as the shifter linkage?

    When they finally let me go home (16 more days!) I'm going to buy the tools I need to take the shifter off and see if there's anything obvious broken. If anyone has any suggestions to help me diagnose the issue or ideas on what specifically could be wrong, then I'd sure appreciate the feedback. I'll replace the tranny if I have to, but if I don't have to that'd sure save me a lot of time and trouble. Plus if all I have to do is replace the shifter, it's a decent excuse to buy a short throw kit.

    Thanks in advance. Now maybe I'll actually be able to get some sleep.
    Zoey - 1987 Z31T GLL - HKS EVC / CM SS 3" turbo-back / Stance GR+
    Black Betty - 2014 Audi C7 S6 APR1

  • #2
    read this guide. viewtopic.php?f=24&t=30675
    remove the shift lever. you don't need many tools.
    do not remove the top plate, it's unnecessary until you find out something is wrong with the shift lever.
    chances are your nylon shift bushing is destroyed from trying to combat rapid gear clashing in the trans. you'll need some long surgical pliers or needle nose pliers to pick the broken plastic out of the shifter hole once you remove the lever. i bet the bushing broke in two or three pieces, and fell below the small bushing ball on the end of the lever, and now the bushing ball is what you are trying to use to select gears now (i.e. - no bueno). once the bushing goes missing, the angle of the lower part of the lever is incorrect and it is extremely hard to select gears.

    buy a new bushing from nissan for 4 bucks.

    better yet, buy a short shifter, and install it now since you're doing half the steps. still need the nissan bushing for some of the short shifters. the 240sx bushing is smaller or something. i removed my 240sx bushing from the new short shifter and smacked on a new 300zx R30A bushing.

  • #3
    Ah Careless, what would I do without you?

    I got up to the point of removing the rubber boot (which fell apart) on my own, I but wasn't sure how to proceed after that. I assumed I'd have to remove the shifter plate to get the shifter out.

    I'll post my progress/lack thereof when I get home. Made a deal with the old lady to try to quit weed for a while, so I'm going to need something productive to keep me occupied when I go home and she's at work during the day. Zoey should fill that void nicely.

    Thanks again man, next time i'm in Toronto I'll have to buy you two dozen shooters or something. :super
    Zoey - 1987 Z31T GLL - HKS EVC / CM SS 3" turbo-back / Stance GR+
    Black Betty - 2014 Audi C7 S6 APR1

  • #4
    When are you going to be in Toronto next? i want shooters now. lol

    as for what to do after the boot, i think it's outlined in the guide linked above. it's just a really big circlip that holds the whole assembly down. since you will cover that groove for the clip with the new short shifter (if you get one), the assembly will be held down with a plate that is fastened using clamps on the outside.

    pretty easy stuff.

  • #5
    Careless wrote: When are you going to be in Toronto next? i want shooters now. lolIt probably won't be until next year. We like to go at least once a year to catch a couple Jays games, but this year we had so many other trips planned that we decided to skip it. I'd still go, but the two-month exile kinda hurt my income this year and if I don't curtail my spending a little I'll be eating into my corporate tax reserves. I'll keep you updated on my plans though.

    Careless wrote:
    as for what to do after the boot, i think it's outlined in the guide linked above. it's just a really big circlip that holds the whole assembly down. since you will cover that groove for the clip with the new short shifter (if you get one), the assembly will be held down with a plate that is fastened using clamps on the outside.

    pretty easy stuff.
    Yeah, it looks pretty straightforward now that I know what's supposed to be removed and what isn't. Who wrote up that PDF? It's hilarious.
    Zoey - 1987 Z31T GLL - HKS EVC / CM SS 3" turbo-back / Stance GR+
    Black Betty - 2014 Audi C7 S6 APR1

  • #6
    no idea. i think the original poster did.

  • #7
    For future reference… how to drive a car with no clutch (pedal)

    1. Push nonfunctional clutch pedal for switch purposes.

    2. Start the car with it in first gear. The starter is capable of moving the car and starting it, quite easily actually.
    (yes yes, this COULD tear up your starter and less likely the flywheel but it's a lot cheaper than a trans)

    3. Revmatch and up-shift only. Keep it in as low a gear as possible, and lug when you need. Down-shifting is generally worse.
    (You can drive around all day in 3rd gear pretty easily)

    4. When you need to come to a stop, put it in neutral, stop, shut off car and repeat.

    Never use a first gear syncro as a clutch to get car moving, that is just ouch.

    Also, if your car dies in a unsafe location, you can put your finger on the clutch switch (if the clutch works) and use this method to move the car via starter a short distance to safety.

  • #8
    Tempestas wrote: Also, if your car dies in a unsafe location, you can put your finger on the clutch switch (if the clutch works) and use this method to move the car via starter a short distance to safety.
    … or three blocks or so on a semi-dead battery :P

  • #9
    Thanks for the tips. I really should've just parked her and returned with tools, though. I have no intention of trying to drive her without a functional clutch ever again.
    B&M shifter kit ordered; lower shifter boot and bushings ordered. I got five bushings so I'll still have a spare when I wreck the first three in my clumsy attempts to modify/install. :foufou

    Since I was already in on stupid shipping prices and cross-border duty and all that other crap which makes me wonder why NAFTA only seems to benefit the USA, I also added the clutch/brake pedal stoppers (my cruise control quit on me during my trip to the Edmonton Z Car Show) as well as a new CHTS and subharness. With the difference in shipping cost, this stuff might have been cheaper to get from my local Nissan dealer, but they said the shifter bushings were backordered and would take a minimum 6 weeks to arrive from Japan. Also, despite my giving the guy the parts numbers for everything, he still screwed it up and quoted me the price for an EGI harness ($900!!!) instead of the CHTS subharness.

    Hopefully all this stuff is waiting for me when I get home.
    Zoey - 1987 Z31T GLL - HKS EVC / CM SS 3" turbo-back / Stance GR+
    Black Betty - 2014 Audi C7 S6 APR1

  • #10
    Parker wrote: With the difference in shipping cost, this stuff might have been cheaper to get from my local Nissan dealer, but they said the shifter bushings were backordered and would take a minimum 6 weeks to arrive from Japan. Also, despite my giving the guy the parts numbers for everything, he still screwed it up and quoted me the price for an EGI harness ($900!!!) instead of the CHTS subharness.
    Don't worry, my local dealer is retarded too, tells me parts don't exist all the time

  • #11
    Hey, I just noticed something…

    The shifter boot I ordered was the OEM one for my year and model (32862-Z31001) but the writeup says to use 32862-V5001, which is the 240SX shifter boot. Will the Z31 boot work with the 240SX shifter kit, or should I get the one for the 240SX? My parts haven't shipped from Courtesy Nissan yet so it might not be too late to change the order.
    Zoey - 1987 Z31T GLL - HKS EVC / CM SS 3" turbo-back / Stance GR+
    Black Betty - 2014 Audi C7 S6 APR1

  • #12
    Hmm. Upon closer inspection they appear to be identical parts, just with slightly different part numbers. Looks like I should be fine.
    Zoey - 1987 Z31T GLL - HKS EVC / CM SS 3" turbo-back / Stance GR+
    Black Betty - 2014 Audi C7 S6 APR1

  • #13
    SHE LIVES AGAIN!

    I can't believe I was committed to spending a bunch of money on a rebuilt tranny when all it took was a $4 bushing. I owe you big time, Careless. :-D
    Zoey - 1987 Z31T GLL - HKS EVC / CM SS 3" turbo-back / Stance GR+
    Black Betty - 2014 Audi C7 S6 APR1

  • #14
    :ange