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My 88T rear is getting unbearably loud (entirely my fault), but the CLSD works fine. I'm considering an NA diff with my LSD, as it should be cheaper than a replacement turbo rear and I'd like the little gear ratio bump anyway.
I'm assuming the LSD unit should pop into an NA diff just fine, but I'd like some confirmation. Is there anything different inside the NA unit that won't let it accept my CLSD and turbo axles? Any difference between years (other than the driveshaft/companion flange)? I've done a few quick searches, but I'm finding nothing but VLSD into NA and whole CLSD unit swaps.5.3 LSx Z31 -
Nope. Swap it in with the spacers/ shims from the na diff as well as the na ring gear.Hmmm, Whats next?
Full Size Bronco, smashing shit.
84ZXT -
That simple? Just throw it in and go?
Sounds great. Now I can start diff shopping. Thanks.5.3 LSx Z31 -
What is making the noise, could the LSD be on its way out?DD:
86 Black Turbo 5spd
The Fallen:
84 red n/a auto Slicktop, 86 Black 2+2 n/a 5spd
Parting Currently:
86 White Turbo 5spd, 88 n/a 5spd, 84 AE, 88 Shiro #64
Garage Sale -
Yes. Its that simple."Its the s12's sexy over weight step daughter, the z31" -
I'm assuming the gearset. Its loud on acceleration and extremely loud when coasting in gear. Worse at speed. It quiets down when coasting in neutral or holding a very light throttle at steady speed. I get no ill noise when cornering and both tires spin when its burnout time. I did not use a torque wrench on the pinion nut when I did seals. I blamed the new noise on the poly bushings I installed at the same time until it started getting louder. By now I'd assume its too late and would feel better just replacing the unit while the car is down for winter (assuming we even get a winter this year).MADMIKE wrote: What is making the noise, could the LSD be on its way out?
Oh well, lesson learned. I'm usually a freak about torque specs, for this sort of reason. At least I got lazy on my own car :lol: .5.3 LSx Z31 -
[quote]shromy wrote:Guess you would have had to press a bearing onto a rear end before to know that not every bearing is manufactured to the exact same size, or pressed onto the carrier to the exact same depth (even from factory)- making the factory shims nothing but a gamble. Also, bearings deform if you don't press them correctly (see HybridZ for good examples of rebuilding an R200).Originally posted by Careless
:roll:
try picking on someone else with stupid comments. thanks. trying to fix a diff that is making noise without checking anything that is easy to check is just asking for the next carrier to make more noise.
shims are also there because of core shift during casting of the diff housing. guess you would have had to cast something to know that… or something? i dunno. I'm just copying your dumb ass comment. not sure why you even had to go there. -
Careless, lol is all I have to say. Yup my post telling him exactly what he needed to do was stupid alright alright!Hmmm, Whats next?
Full Size Bronco, smashing shit.
84ZXT -
having done the exact process shromy and i both described quite a few times it doesnt matter about any of that Raff because the diff your swapping into IS setup. The press on those bearings is extreme as you and I have discussed in the past. Also, the components wear differently thats why its important to install in revers of disassembly with these diffs."Its the s12's sexy over weight step daughter, the z31" -
^^ Never had an issue doing it either.nismopu wrote: having done the exact process shromy and i both described quite a few times it doesnt matter about any of that Raff because the diff your swapping into IS setup. The press on those bearings is extreme as you and I have discussed in the past. Also, the components wear differently thats why its important to install in revers of disassembly with these diffs.- VG30DET (HE341) 86 300ZX - 1982 280ZX Turbo - Headered NA 1986 300ZX 2+2 - 2000 Xterra - -
well i see my post was deleted. thanks. seems like personalized comments only work one way on this board. :-)
i guess when you guys pass reading comprehension 101 and see that i never said that just swapping carriers would not fix the problem- you guys might come to the realization that what I said is more along the lines of "while you're there" you should check the shims/backlash rather than just guess and hope noises go away.
whatever. do it your own way. if it doesn't fix the noise, you'll be taking it apart again and doing it properly anyways. your choice. this board went from doing it properly to doing it blindly and resting laurels on hope.
good luck with that! if it doesn't work out for you, just do it again and again! then you'll have as much experience as shromy.
:super -
Whatever anybody else said my process is as follows.
*Take fully assembled (open)long nose diff, clean it up
*Take backlash reading on multiple teeth on the ring gear - record these values.
*Take a 1/4 dial tq wrench and pop it on the pinion shaft nut and spin the tq wrench around and keep spinning it until it gets a continuous reading in inch pounds - record this value
of the 3 CLSD's into Opens i have done so far ( all worn ) backlash came out about 0.21 to 0.23 - in this case i added side shim until i got back down to 0.16 to 0.18 then proceeded to use gear marking paste to check the mesh pattern ( see your fsm )
If the Total diff Preload ( with worn front seal ) is well below 10 inch pounds then you should now remove the LSD housing and ring gear and take a preload reading on ONLY the pinion shaft.
If this is around 4 or more inch pounds then look how worn your side bearings are, as side bearings may need replaced. If the Pinion shaft Preload is near 0 then the pinion bearings are very worn and the pinion bearing preload may need adjusted.
My post very roughly describes what the FSM would get you to do except i didn't go into all the calculations, I have done my diffs by feel and trial and error.
I suggest reading the CLSD FSM many times over and then going about finding the tools you need to do the job.85 Turbo Slick Top
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You should post all the part numbers or cross-ref vehicles for the parts it took to piece your clsd together from…james wrote: Whatever anybody else said my process is as follows.
*Take fully assembled (open)long nose diff, clean it up
*Take backlash reading on multiple teeth on the ring gear - record these values.
*Take a 1/4 dial tq wrench and pop it on the pinion shaft nut and spin the tq wrench around and keep spinning it until it gets a continuous reading in inch pounds - record this value
of the 3 CLSD's into Opens i have done so far ( all worn ) backlash came out about 0.21 to 0.23 - in this case i added side shim until i got back down to 0.16 to 0.18 then proceeded to use gear marking paste to check the mesh pattern ( see your fsm )
If the Total diff Preload ( with worn front seal ) is well below 10 inch pounds then you should now remove the LSD housing and ring gear and take a preload reading on ONLY the pinion shaft.
If this is around 4 or more inch pounds then look how worn your side bearings are, as side bearings may need replaced. If the Pinion shaft Preload is near 0 then the pinion bearings are very worn and the pinion bearing preload may need adjusted.
My post very roughly describes what the FSM would get you to do except i didn't go into all the calculations, I have done my diffs by feel and trial and error.
I suggest reading the CLSD FSM many times over and then going about finding the tools you need to do the job.
Since clutch/friction discs are still available, the rest of the parts needed to make a z31 clsd would be nice -
Parts I used to Replicate an OEM Z CLSD…( but with extra clutches )G-E wrote:
You should post all the part numbers or cross-ref vehicles for the parts it took to piece your clsd together from…
Since clutch/friction discs are still available, the rest of the parts needed to make a z31 clsd would be nice
LOM59 CLSD housing
Jap DR30 (FJ20ET) 29 spline side gears ( Same as Z31 )
R32 GTR Pressure Rings
R32 GTR Cross Pin & Spider Gears
R32 GTR clutch plates came in this configuration( i think )
Spring,Spring,Clutch,Disc,Clutch ### Clutch, Disc,Clutch,Spring,Spring
OEM 85 Turbo Shafts85 Turbo Slick Top
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