clutch question/issue?

Yes, it is for drag racing not traffic, what did you expect… this is why you should talk to someone like dave@sbc who can tell you which you should go with

I plan on racing it, it is not a daily driver. I have never had a performance/racing clutch. I was just making sure it should be like that and how much it should. Does the clutch still have the same 500+ mile break in period being a racing clutch?

Its a organic clutch pad right? So it probably does. I'm gona give my DxD stage 3 daily 750 miles before I start doing WOT stuff.

If you got the stage 3 6 puck drag clutch it is not always going to be smooth taking off and will shudder, You should drive easy for about 300 miles in town to break it in. This means no full throttle, No hard launches ect.

May want to check adjustment if it has a high release point, If you have it too tight it can cause the clutch to slip and burn up, Adjust so engagement is about the half way point.

To lower the engagement point do I move the pedal closer to the floor or farther away? The adjustment right now is pretty close to being all the way out (farther from the floor). Thanks

The pedal itself should not move, What you are changing is where the clutch starts to grab coming off the floor. You need to thread the master cylinder rod into the clevis further, Go about 1 turn and try it then if it need to go lower turn it another turn ect.

[quote]ZSpeedPerformance wrote: The only purpose for adjusting the clutch master rod is to get the pedal clevis pin to spin freely in the pedal bore without touching the pedal. If you can't rotate the clevis pin freely, you have a slight load on the hydraulic system which will have very bad consequences on the clutch and other components in the system as you are not fully releasing pressure in the master cylinder. This can get worse when things heat up too.

You don't adjust the master rod to change the engagement point for the reason above.

If the clutch engagement is really low, you have bad fluid, air in the lines, bad clutch damper, bad slave or master cylinder, flexing/bent clutch fork, or worn/broken pivot ball.

I have brand new OEM Nissan clutch master and slave cylinders, with ss braided clutch line, damper delete, and ZSpeed HD fork and pivot ball. My master rod clevis pin rotates freely with the pedal at rest and the engagement is near the top half of pedal travel.

Will the ZSpeed HD fork swap into the 71C Tranny? Where did you purcahse yours from?

I just completed the VG33E swap w/ stage III DXD clutch and have the same problem

I had when I did the NA2T swap 3 years ago of the clutch not fully disengaging. Thanks.

Nope, only fits the 30A trans.

I bought it from ZSpeed last year.

If anyone in the Dayton area has a 71c trans laying around I would be more than glad to try and see if we can make it work somehow. If you bring your trans I will offer you the fork kit at no charge for your trouble....

I have 2x 71c's in storage to try or at least compare but won't be able to get to them until thursday at the earliest

I would need the trans here to see what can be done, Over the interrweb doesn't help, Already tried that but thanks for the offer.