Hit a mental block wiring in fuel pump

Continued headache's

Pump primes.

44PSI. as priming engine will start, pressure bleeds off… OK so i need to put in a check valve (thanks fuelab for making integrated valves an after thought)

If start is attempted after Pump stops. no start

Jump relay, provide constant power.

Engine will start and sputter out in 2-4 seconds.

Good crank signal. Relay will not remain activated during cranking as FSM states.

WTF, pls help

no need for a check valve, thats the pumps job. from the sounds of it the pump is not staying on after start and you need to figure out why. make sure your relay stays active after start etc. what happens to fuel pressure with the relay jumped and car running

The pump does not activate during cranking, so it's not receiving fuel pressure

I did look at my tune this morning and found some bad values. After correcting those values, and jumping the fuel pump it will run and idle.

It however is not receiving signal to activate the pump during cranking. Even if i attempt to start during priming, the moment i attempt to start power is cut to the pump.

I have it wired in OEM configuration. With 14V direct to pump.

then you need to check your relay and see where the signal lose is coming from. seems to be the ecu side from the sounds of it. you should be using the ecu to ground the coil off pin 20 from the looks of the second diagram.

I metered per EFEC-94 and 95, everything checks out. good power, good continuity, 0 resistance.

Each day just puts me further behind - and i really, really, really don't want to put this on some haggard switch

well, i feel stupid.

I wasn't aware the relay was tucked into the wall just behind the passenger seat.

Will rewire and check back

I'm convinced no one in the FAQ page actually tried their wiring because none of them fucking work.

it cant check out good. if you jump the relay the car is fine, so the relay is being shut down after start. you need to recheck everything under the conditions it fails. the only input from the ecu you should be using is the ground switch at pin 20. that or the ecu has failed. both 12v straight from batt, ground from pump straight trough the switch side to a good chassis ground, coil ground from relay to the ecu. you could get the coil 12v from original pump 12v as well, pump needs to come straight off the battery. all else fails, undo whatever you got going and rewire to oe to get it going.

Gave up yesterday and put it on a switch like some sort of third world degenerate.

Took a leave from work so I've only got about 3mo to get this done. October is 10yrs this has been in the works, i'll quit if it goes beyond that

3 months should be plenty to rebuild the whole car,lol.

Class 6 dummie alert, never retorqued the oil pan gasket. No big work ahead.