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Car started hitting the rev limiter at 5K. Back to the distributor… -
Have you been able to sort this out or made any more progress? I have an 87 turbo with very similar problems - currently it runs ok from start, then runs rough once warm and after 5 mins stalls. If I disconnect the chts it will run smoother and continue to run. CHTS tests fine and has been replaced 3 times by PO. Most of the other sensors have been replaced as well. ECU is picking up MAF, although again it has been replaced. Connector isn't great but looks clean. Other thing is Idle control unit which I still need to check/replace.
Thinking it may be injectors ie they are only firing properly with rich fuel. Looking out with interest to so if you sort. cheers -
Put a higher flow pump in it and it does run a lot better. Still just as rich at idle but doesn't break up as much in boost as far as I can tell. It's been rainy so lack of traction doesn't work for testing lol.
The ECU has stopped reading the CHTS as it now gives the code for it and yes, the wiring and sensor is good. It still starts right up on cold mornings. The air regulator for cold idling has also stopped working and is no longer getting a signal from the ECU. Even though that's stuck on the idle fluctuates a lot both in RPM and how groggy it sounds. There's a point though where it idles nice and high while being smooth and doesn't sound overloaded with fuel.
Basically I think the ECU is losing it's brains.
It's going to cost an arm and a leg to license it so I've been driving my pick up instead and kinda put the car on the back burner.
I'd try another ECU in your car man. -
Lack of traction was a big problem for actually testing the car. Basically it still runs just as shitty when boost hits and backfires/stumbles on decel.
I tried another distributor, didn't help, so I swapped the original one back in. It's gotta be the ECU by now. -
Think I'm gonna spend more time checking the wiring before spending any more money on parts - not that I can find anything in the UK anyway.
Keep finding wires that aren't attached to anything which is a bit worrying, as well as additions to the wiring yet to be figured out- might just be for the none standard radio, but not sure yet.
Just need some warmer and dry weather so I can work on it.
cheers -
Latest update. Fuel modulator replaced, no change still stalls (on the positive side I got a job lot of spares/ecu's/turbo/ttops/lights/maf so some decent value). Got the UK/Euro FSM now which is also a big help. Figured out the cooling fans, one comes on when the aircon is switched on. The other should come on when the set temp is reached in the radiator.
Radiator appears to be a problem, thermostat appears to open ok, can feel hot water in top pipe to radiator. But radiator and bottom pipe remains cold, so clearly no circulation - query blocked radiator or could it possibly be the water pump not pumping (although was replaced around 5 years ago)?
Also located what a mystery wire is (not connected to anything). Think it is wired differently than US spec, hence I couldn't figure it out previously! It is the connector to the water temp sensor - the wire has broken off it leaving the wire unconnected. Could this cause the stall problem?
Still think something to do with the water not circulating through the radiator. Seems that after running smoothly for around 5 mins, it then runs rougher - appears to be when the thermostat opens, think at that point when water heats up and pressure builds, water is getting into the engine ignition
area causing the water problem from exhaust, then finally causing the stall?
Any thoughts? Thanks
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Z31 Turbo 1987 UK spec -
Just for reference for anyone with my stall problem - finally sorted it out this week. Turned out to be a faulty injector. Inj #1 was ohm testing out at ~1.9 rather than ~3. The stall happened just after the engine warmed up and switched from simultaneous to group firing mode. What I think was happening was that in group mode, the faulty injector was impacting the performance of the other two in that group (shorting) causing the stall. Established this after finding the car continues to run when #1 injector was disconnected.
Managed to get another used set of injectors which were cleaned and ohm tested and fitted - now works. Annoying thing was also that the injectors were taken out and sent off for cleaning last year, but nothing to show they had been ohm tested and I wasn't aware either with my limited knowledge. Used a different company this time.
Anyway, now up and running, thought it worth feeding back after coming across lots of dead ends in my research!
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