Won't start… EFI relay?

For what it's worth, I sniffed the tailpipe after repeated attempts to start, and I thought I could detect the smell of fuel. Seems most likely that I'm not getting spark, even though one of the plugs was sparking… very frustrating.

Pull the distributor and turn it by hand with the key on and listen for the injectors ticking. If they are, I'd bet its the CHTS. If they aren't, probably CAS.

Only code 13?
Have you tried unplugging the chts at the harness?
Have you taken anything else apart?

Per the diagnostic (EF&EC pg. 56-57), I pulled the 16-pin connector and tested resistance from points 23 and 26. Got an open circuit, not the

No. It shouldn't keep your car from running. A decent amount of z guys run it unplugged lol
Sounds like ignition timing maybe. Have u tried twisting the dizzy

Not yet, will try that tomorrow. I've pulled distributor rotors as a ghetto anti-theft trick when I was leaving my car parked somewhere I didn't trust… this acts a little like that.

Tried advancing and retarding the timing, both to no benefit…

Also picked up a new EFI relay at AZ and it didn't make any difference either… any other suggestions?

Pull timing covers and make sure the gears haven't jumped at all.
That's the only thing I can think of.
Have you tried the spark test?
Also checking and making sure everything is securely plugged in

If by "spark test" you mean pulling a plug and checking for spark while cranking, then yes I have. Re-reading above, am I to pull the entire distributor and turn the rotor gear by hand? Suppose that can be done just need to pay attention to where it is before I remove it. Don't understand why I wouldn't get the CAS code if that's what we're trying to diagnose.

He means pull the distributor out but leave it all hooked up and spin the shaft by hand while the key is on. You should hear the injectors ticking, and can also check for spark. If you get no noise or spark, the CAS has gone bad.

Pulled the dizzy tonight. Here's what I found:

First time, I disconnected half the plug wires and the coil wire to get the cap off and just left it off to see if I could hear just the injector ticking (no spark plugs). I could hear some slight popping sounds, but it seemed to mostly be coming from down below the A/C compressor, below the coil. Didn't really hear anything around the injectors but an occasional tick from the back of the engine, like under the intake cover. I was spinning the rotor maybe 60-120 rpm (1-2 rotations per second).

Then as I set the distributor down, I realized that even just a partial rotation would cause a discharge (from either the coil wire or the "injector tick"). I very slowly turned the rotor and was able to hear three different sounds of distinct ticks with each 60 degrees of revolution. One was the sound coming from below the A/C compressor, the other two came from where I assume the part is that ticks as the injectors actuate (not coming from the area of each injector though).

I believe the sound below the A/C compressor is due to the fact that the coil wasn't connected to the plugs. There is a small ground wire coming off the distributor that I believe was picking up some stray voltage from the coil down low (under the compressor). The other two sounds appeared to be the injector opening and closing.

I put the cap on, hooked up all the loose plug wires and coil wire and spun the rotor. In this configuration, there was no popping sound from below the A/C compressor, which goes to my theory about the coil needing someplace to discharge. The "injector tick" was still only noticeable at a very slow rate of rotation (about 60 degrees per second or 10 rpm).

What I don't understand is what is causing this injector ticking to be only noticeable at slow rotation, when the coil seems to discharge more frequently even at a higher rate of rotation.

Only problem I had was that I accidentally bumped the ignition switch when I was trying to turn it off and the distributor was still out of its hole. I have no idea how much of a revolution the engine made, but obviously I'm going to have to realign the rotor to the timing marks now… of course, it doesn't really matter since I can't get the thing to fire.

Does what I've described sound like a bad crank angle sensor? I would think it might, but I am also just kinda shooting in the dark.

Maybe your ignition control module went bad?

I love how these topics never get closure lol

Have you figured it out? It sounds to me like a bad CAS? I would think that you should easily be able to hear all 6 injectors pulsing.

If you really want to know if those injectors are firing you can listien to them by touching each one with a long screw driver, and putting your ear on the handle while turning the CAS manualy. It should be very obvious if the injector is opening/closing doing it this way.