Upper intake manifold bolts- Removal


  • Upper intake manifold bolts- Removal

    What tool do I use? Obviously an allen-wrench doesn't offer enough leverage or torque do budge these screws. Just a dumb and simple question but would appreciate an answer.

  • #2
    You need a allen set for a 3/8 or 1/2 inch drive socket.

    http://www.sears.com/search=allen%20…20socket%20set

  • #3
    You should be careful with these, try using standard "break" procedures, like soak in penetrant, lightly heat and cool with torch and cold spray, wiggle with the wrench…

    They are easy to strip, you don't want to apply a ton of torque on them

  • #4
    AND FOR GLOBS SAKE..ahem

    Make sure the 6mm hex head driver socket (not a cheap ass ball end from a loose kit) is seating to the bottom of the screw head.
    Debris can get in there so it doesn't seat properly which makes it easier to strip out when you're gently givin' it the onions.


    84 AE/Shiro #683/Shiro #820/84 Turbo

  • #5
    I have used an Allen wrench with the long plug socket from the tool kit as an extension bar after soaking the bolts in PB Blaster. I did this a couple times until I bought a good hex socket



    1988 300ZX Turbo, Shiro Special #760
    1988 300ZX Turbo Automatic (wife's car)
    1991 Hard-body 2WD

    http://zccw.org/zccw/?page_id=1215

  • #6
    If you're ever in a pickle, you can slide a 6mm wrench onto a 6mm allen key for added torque.

    1988 300zxt. gt35, stance, etc. Wheels: Varrstoen ES2 18x9.5 et-13 225/40. 18x10.5 et0 245/40
    1990 jetta vr6'd

  • #7
    You guys have stripped these things? what the heck are you torquing them to lol
    Usual Z31 suspect: Garage Queen (aka broken)

  • #8
    Tap the socket with a small hammer to make sure the bit seats all the way.
    5.3 LSx Z31

  • #9
    300zxturboftw;343439 wrote: You guys have stripped these things? what the heck are you torquing them to lol
    Some of the bolts on jy cars that haven't been removed since the factory are pretty damn hard to get off there.

    1988 300zxt. gt35, stance, etc. Wheels: Varrstoen ES2 18x9.5 et-13 225/40. 18x10.5 et0 245/40
    1990 jetta vr6'd

  • #10
    i r teh noobz;343441 wrote: Tap the socket with a small hammer to make sure the bit seats all the way.
    this.

  • #11
    I just stuck one of these on my small impact and zapped them right out.
    Prius… because Pretentious wouldn't fit across the back of the car…

    Cheap, Fast, Reliable - pick any two

    My 1986 Turbo Build

  • #12
    DeleriousZ;343443 wrote: Some of the bolts on jy cars that haven't been removed since the factory are pretty damn hard to get off there.
    I suppose. That's why you use the socket pictured above and hit it with a hammer to break apart rust. Tap of the trigger on an impact gun then use a hand tool to remove. Wah' la
    Usual Z31 suspect: Garage Queen (aka broken)

  • #13
    An impact gun is great if you have a pneumatic one with a compressor or an electric one. Often times, we have neither at the junk yard.



    1988 300ZX Turbo, Shiro Special #760
    1988 300ZX Turbo Automatic (wife's car)
    1991 Hard-body 2WD

    http://zccw.org/zccw/?page_id=1215

  • #14
    reddzx;343505 wrote: An impact gun is great if you have a pneumatic one with a compressor or an electric one. Often times, we have neither at the junk yard.
    For sure. I've got a cordless one that just destroys shit and has great battery life. Been a life saver at the jy a few times already.

    1988 300zxt. gt35, stance, etc. Wheels: Varrstoen ES2 18x9.5 et-13 225/40. 18x10.5 et0 245/40
    1990 jetta vr6'd

  • #15
    reddzx;343505 wrote: An impact gun is great if you have a pneumatic one with a compressor or an electric one. Often times, we have neither at the junk yard.
    I always take both my big and small electric impact with me to the yard.
    Prius… because Pretentious wouldn't fit across the back of the car…

    Cheap, Fast, Reliable - pick any two

    My 1986 Turbo Build