EGR question For CA models and …

I think this is something you'll have to test, I've never seen much info on cali model behaviour

What if you ran the m30 ecu without a check engine light, would this be a problem passing?

BTW I expect you'll be running a yellow sticker afm if you do the resistor trick, the egt tunes the blue sticker afm readings instead of the sealed potentiometer

They will most likely look for the light before they start the engine and watch it turn off after the engine turns over, that's how they know they know it works.
Yellow sticker? I know nothing of this. When I did my M30 swap I just pulled the harness MAF and ECU. When the injector driver failed on that ECU I fell back on a spare that was a CA model for a short period of time. Was there something wrong with that? I had no Idea there was a variation of the N60 MAF.

Edit: I just looked and the label (the one that says N60) and its purple/blue I see no other stickers.

I did some Googleing, and I can't find yellow sticker n60 anywhere. (all the ones on ebay were purple too)
Then I found the thread here http://z31performance.com/forum/z31-…r-flow-sensors
And bounced some information from there against the M30 FSM… That's a Z31 thing not and M30 thing, The M30 ECU has its own dedicated Pin for the EGT sensor and it is just left blank on the federal models and the M30 only uses 4/6 wires for the MAF.

Now that that's out of the way, I guess I'm just gonna go try it and see what happens.

I thought you were going to switch back to a cali z31 ecu for the smog, but that's a good find, about the blank egt sense pin

Got it, nope too much work to re-pin a harness just to switch ECU's I have a Cali and a Federal M30 ECU plug and play all they way and the Federal will become my NisTune ECU one day…
Anyway, It worked:

1 Plug in CA ECU, warm up engine and drive light throttle to trigger CEL
2 Clear codes and splice in 100 Ohm resistor (because that's all I had on hand, 82k to 92k Ohm is ideal) between the EGT pin and the EFI harness. (pins 39 and 30 on the M30 ecu)
3 Drive again, No light no codes*, gonna go for a nice drive and then try to pass smog…

*100 Ohm only worked while the engine is hot. On cold start a code is thrown because the resistance is abnormally low for a cold engine.

1/5/2014 --- Just got an 82k Ohm and it appears to be working fine hot and cold. Also found a 240sx forum where they are using 100k Ohm resistors with no issues

And I failed smog again

I thought there was a plug you unplug at 100k for the egr under the drivers dash. Post your numbers for smog

Yes post your results, we can tell what's failing you

Very likely high NOx caused by lack of egr

I have working EGR, you have to have everything to pass visual. I bypassed the EGR Temp Sensor, not the EGR itself.
I failed everything. Twice, the first time around I had excessive timing and discovered my cat core had flipped over sideways.
This time everything was set right and I borrowed a (non CA) cat. but still failed. The guy said I need a new cat and O2 sensor (the only 2 things that are not new on this engine, everything else has 7k miles or less on it.)

HC 15 mph limit 121 actual 208
HC 25 mph limit 101 actual 143

CO 15 mph limit .70 actual .97
CO 25 mph limit .63 actual .69

NO 15 mph limit 1006 actual 1780
NO 25 mph limit 606 actual 1679

No limits listed
%CO2 15 mph 8.6
%CO2 25 mph 8.7

No limits listed
%O2 15 mph 7.8
%O2 25 mph 8.0

My FPR is buried under the manifold and I think its hammer dented to ~50psi I have a stock 43.5 I can put back in there if that helps. I have not done any AFR readings to it
(saving up for Innovate MTX-L) but it feels good, sounds good and gets decent MPG. I guess its just not right enough for smog…

Your cat is marginal for sure, might just need to heat it up with a high speed run just before the test…

Your NOx is way high, either your egr needs cleaning, or it's not getting a good vacuum to the diaphragm

Your HC might indicate your timing is now too retarded or you're just running too rich, put back a good/uncrushed fpr

What grade fuel are you using? M30 would take 87rm like the Z but if you have 10:1 you might need to experiment …

Emissions tests are a pretty good way to get a sense of how well a car is tuned, things like NOx tells you egt's too high from being lean or the burn continuing into the exhaust from being retarded, this is different from "running well"

I did the test on premium because 1 that's what the m30 calls for and 2 I was told it burns cleaner. But even with 10:1, I regularly use 87. They check the timing as part of the emissions test and if your timing is wrong +/- 2 you automatically fail.
The M30 ecu calls for 15 and the emissions test system has my vehicle listed a 12. So to stay within the test limits AND be within spec for my vehicle my only option is 14.
15 and I fail the visual according to the computer and anything lower will probably fail me at the tail pipe due to too much retard.

I guess having NisTune would come in handy here, I could set my base timing to whatever I want and still retain the correct timing map for the rest of the RPM range.

"Premium" only burns slower, which is great for high compression, but also for more advanced timing, or long strokes, as it allows you to create power longer, doesn't automatically burn cleaner

You've made so many changes to the basic operating of the car, you really need to get a proper low-load tune

… and you might still need a new cat

yeah, I've always been in favor of running the lowest octane possible, don't know why the M30 calls for premium, its the same vg30 everyone else gets.
anyway, Yeah, New Cat and O2 on the way. MTX-L hopefully next payday so I can see where I actually sit. Just sucks my tabs are gonna expire and I'll have to walk into that madhouse for an extension instead of new tabs.