E-85 for our gas tanks

I have no experience on the matter, but a quick google search turned this up, and these guys seem to have a consensus that if the tank is in good shape you just need to clean it out. http://www.theturboforums.com/thread…E85-compatible

No need for any coating, the tanks are designed to be anti-corrosive.

A long while ago, I did a thread about E85. I said that the amount of corrosion that it causes was minimal and that people were over reacting about it.

Well, I retract all of that opinion. I let E85 sit in my car for a good long while without it running. After months of it sitting. I started it up. Fuel started spraying from one of my stainless braided lines. couple weeks after that, my $500 Magnafuel fuel pump seized up, and I had to send it in to get rebuilt. Then when my car was at the first tuner, he could run my car with the fuel pump off, but couldn't understand why. I got there and noticed my fuel pressure was reading negative when he ran the car. E85 fried the diaphragm in my FPR, so engine vaccum was sucking fuel into the intake manifold.

So after first hand experience of E85 fucking up my own shit… I now stand by the fact that your fuel system needs to be built to handle E85. Even my fuel pump and regulator were supposed to be alcohol compatible, but with it just sitting, it was not.

E85 is a great race fuel. But I am sticking to gasoline.

What does that have to do with the lining in your gas tank? Not sure exactly…

The alcohol will indeed eat through a lot of old rubber parts/diaphragms/hoses, but the only issue it should have with steel is that ethanol attracts and captures moisture, it's the moisture that corrodes steel…

SATAN: the pump and everything else was all magnafuel? What brand lines did you use?

Yeah I'm full teflon, but i'm using a lot of aluminum fittings…so that probably won't work. I'm sticking to gas for now, but was thinking eventually to go E-85.

I've been running E85 for 4 years now without issues. Although I did replace my fuel pump and my lines about 2 years ago (upgrade).
I am using the Walbro 400lph exclusive E85 version
http://www.amazon.com/Walbro-Univers…/dp/B00AKF47ZE

My FPR is a Aeromotive A1000

The only thing I am having to do frequently is re-calibrating my LC1 wideband… like every 3-4 months.

Nice, I have the bosch 044 in it, which is all SS internals, but would have to go E85 walbro or dual 044's if I wanted to do E-85.

Hard anodized aluminum is safe with e85, raw aluminum will corrode… all your fittings should be hard anodized

Pump was/is a Magnafuel Pro Tuner 750 and the regulator was a Magnafuel also. Stainless braided lines were a mixture of shit collected over the years.

When I sent the pump in to get rebuilt, I told them I was using E85. They said its not surprising to see that corrosion with a pump that had been sitting unused.

If it eats raw aluminum, it will eventually get into the threaded areas where the anodizing is being scraped away from the interference of
fittings being inserted. NPT and AN fittings are an interference fit that wear away some of the anodizing during the assembly process. It only
takes a small flaw for the corrosion to propagate. I see it often here at work with our hard anodized water cooled heatsinks.

I'm sure that's true, wouldn't teflon tape or goop help?

I use PTFE ARP thread sealant. Always stays wet and is resistant to basically every element on earth (ok that's slightly drastic). No issues or leaks on anything so far although haven't used E-85 with it but that was the nature of buying the damn tube of stuff.

NPT threads are designed to be a interference fit, metal is supposed to mash up against metal, damaging the protective anodizing layer and exposing it to corrosion.
They now have NPT dryseal that has a longer taper that is supposed to eliminate the need for thread sealants, but that's an aside.

I do prefer mil-spec PTFE tape, it's thicker than what you get at home depot. I've found the thread sealant goop is less forgiving for irregularities
between male and female components (we use Loctite 565, white toothpaste consistency, probably the same as the ARP stuff) than PTFE
tape is. Were just sealing out process water and the corrosion were fighting is galvanic, but the preventative sealing measures are the going to be the same.

My 0.02 would be to use stainless on everything you can, and Swagelok instead of AN.

There's always 2500psi double braided on pushlok