HPX wiring


  • HPX wiring

    So I'm using a HPX blow through MAF and can't figure out the wiring. The connector is from an 05 ford cobra Pigtail. Colors are Red,Black,Brown,Light Blue, Grey, Grey. AZ bum posted this and I tried wiring it that way (colors are slightly different) but it's still on limp mode. Anyone know how to wire this sucker up>?
    Ford-Cobra-MFA-wiring.jpg
    Usual Z31 suspect: Garage Queen (aka broken)

  • #3
    Lemme go take a pic of mine but just quickly looking at zbums, it seems right.
    "Its the s12's sexy over weight step daughter, the z31"

  • #4
    A pic would be great
    Usual Z31 suspect: Garage Queen (aka broken)

  • #5
    Isn't the HPX 3-wire like the Q45 ?

  • #6
    My cobra connector was 3 wire. And grounds should be crossed…

  • #7
    There's info on the wiring on the Nistune site too.

    http://nistune.com/docs/MAF_and_Consult_pinouts.pdf
    Prius… because Pretentious wouldn't fit across the back of the car…

    Cheap, Fast, Reliable - pick any two

    My 1986 Turbo Build

  • #8
    This is what I got
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/281418552406

    The Pigtail is a 2005 mustang pigtail:


    Mustang Pigtail to Z31 connector
    Red - Black/White (power)
    Black - Black (ground)
    brown - black (ground)
    blue - shielded black (output)
    grey - not connected
    grey - not connected

    ^Above set-up is not working. Should I be connecting the red or yellow wire from the Z31. One is the self cleaning which I know I don't need, but the other?

    Z31 VG30 (2 - 7 volt)
    Pin A = Calibration pos (variable resistor)
    Pin B = output voltage (black shielded 2-7 volts)
    Pin C = ground (black - chassis)
    Pin D = ground (black - ECCS)
    Pin E = battery source (12V black striped)
    Pin F = self cleaning mechanism (not used with Z32 MAF)


    I can always hook NIStune up and log until I have a signal from the MAF, but any direction first would be a lot easier if someone has had experience.

    Edit:

    seems that both wires are NOT grounds on mustang MAF. This is the issue. AZ's diagram is wrong:
    Usual Z31 suspect: Garage Queen (aka broken)

  • #9
    Looks to me like Pin 3 from the Mustang harness needs to go to what was connected to Pin B on the Z31.
    Prius… because Pretentious wouldn't fit across the back of the car…

    Cheap, Fast, Reliable - pick any two

    My 1986 Turbo Build

  • #10
    ^agreed. your ecu has had the maf mods done as well i suspect.
    Hmmm, Whats next?
    Full Size Bronco, smashing shit.

    84ZXT

  • #11
    I hope you have modded the ECU board for running 0-5V instead of the factory 2-7V setup… I have the exact same setup on a friends car, with the HPX calibrated for Z32 spec.
    Damn dirty angels....these cars!

    Current Daily Driver - 86 Turbo.
    Under the cover - THE BANANA… that needs to be re-energized.
    sigpic

  • #12
    Uhhhh.....noooo. This is new info to me. Someone spoon feed me the link to the ECU mod for MAF please.
    Usual Z31 suspect: Garage Queen (aka broken)

  • #13
    This?
    The hardware changes required to run a different MAF are simple, and as you have probably already socked your ECU, disconnecting these resistors should be cake (the two parallel ones and r201, I removed R201 and just cut the other two):


    What did you do to keep limp mode? what new resistor/potentiometer do you place where the old resisters were? Sorry this is not my specialty.
    Usual Z31 suspect: Garage Queen (aka broken)

  • #14
    ^the procedure is different, depending on which ECU range youre working with.
    Damn dirty angels....these cars!

    Current Daily Driver - 86 Turbo.
    Under the cover - THE BANANA… that needs to be re-energized.
    sigpic

  • #15
    the one you posted is for 88-89 iirc, may include 87 but, that is the procedure. lip mode would stay in theory, never had a maf failure after the mod or even tested it to see.
    Hmmm, Whats next?
    Full Size Bronco, smashing shit.

    84ZXT