Well I'm certainly not a tuner…

Cranking speed? You mean idle speed. Disable acceleration enrichment, it sounds like you have it on and it's set way too rich. That should help the throttle response, and it should help you figure out the rest of the fueling by reducing the variables at play. If it's going so rich to the point of misfiring the AFRs aren't going to be accurate. So forget about AFR until you fix all the misfires.

But it's good that it's idling. Get it idling and warmed up, then get the AFR to a good number that it appears to like (13.0-14.7). Then adjust timing (my new cams and engine setup seem to like 20 BTDC, vs the stock 10 at 800 rpm). "Stronger" idle timing will tweak the idle VE, so as the timing gets better you will have to adjust the VE. Also adjust the cells behind and below the RPM/load point at idle to be slightly richer. That provides a kind of buffer to help the keep the car running if the idle strays.

Something you can do for convenience is adjust the axis so that idle is mainly the result of a single cell, rather the the interpolation of 2 or more. So if your car idles at 800 RPM and 20 kPa, set the axis cells of the VE and timing cell that is one up and right of the bottom-left cell (so the second diagonal) to those values. That way changes are quicker and easier to make.

Once you have a strong idle at 800, 900, or whatever RPM, smooth out the VE and timing table around it, and start to the lower the idle speed. The VE value of idle at 700 RPM and 1000 RPM are going to be very similar.

Check out msqur.com for some example VE and timing tables (like this one). The site is mine and beta, but has a few samples from my running VG30ET and a bit more modified VG33ET. You can normalize the VE table values to get a better value to compare to (as different req_fuels of two otherwise identical setups will offset each's VE table). You'll have to upload yours and normalize it to compare.

No I mean cranking speed lol. There is a setting for cranking speed which should be around 300rpm. However I can't have it lower than 700. It controls cranking injector pulse and timing. Apparently the pulse during crank is what it wants but the second it comes out of the cranking table it just takes a shit. DIYAutoTune thinks my ignition timing is off. According to the timing light it is good. I'm stumped.

Ah, I see. So it's not really idling properly, you just got lucky.

So take the crank fuel and timing values and put them in your VE/timing tables. Jot down the idle PW while you have the crank settings all fubar, and aim for that after you set the crank speed down to something sane.

If it just dies without backfiring you're probably way too lean with the VE and/or too small a req_fuel.

I would double confirm physical cam timing and distributor-to-cam timing also.

It's crossed my mind to check cam timing but honestly it actually idled pretty good as long as it thought it was in cranking mode lol it didn't sound like it was struggling or anything. I night check it just for piece of mind

Cranking mode just adds more fuel (by default) and has it's own separate timing. Duplicate that fuel and timing outside of cranking mode and you should idle.

Well it turns it I'm retarded and I had the injector banks backwards.... Still fought tooth and nail to get running but it's finally going. Drove it around for about 45 minutes letting auto tune tweak the ve tables. Of course I had an idiot in a firebird come and try to screw with me but I let him have his "win" lol.

Banks shouldn't matter, if you have it setup like stock. Don't autotune if you have misfires, but it sounds like you got that all sorted out?

I'm running full sequential so bank definitely matters. I have 1-3-5 in one loom and 2-4-6 in another and had them reversed.

No missfires unless I'm in a cell that is stupid rich or stupid lean and auto tune typically sorts it out in a few seconds. It is good up until about 28% throttle before it gets into a cell that is not right.

So my tuner (and best friend) got himself fired today. He is hung up on changing squirts per cycle, which according to Megamanual and a few other resources is something you do not change unless it is last resort. He absolutely refuses to listen and says if he tunes it, he is changing it. So I told him then you aren't tuning it if you are going to ignore the very people who developed this ECU…

Anyhoo, I know for a fact settings are off and/or my injector sizing is not right. I bought 850CC injectors from Clean Injection but with the issues I've had with just their fuel rail I would not be surprised if they sold me injectors that are not 850cc… According to the paper they sent me injector dead time at 13v is .672ms. My friend has it at 3.6ms, so huge difference. Tunerstudio required fuel calculator says my required fuel is 4.3ms he has it at 17.2ms. Now the car does run like this but my VE tables are jacked the hell up. Case in point.




I've only tuned up to the 3100RPM and some of the 3700RPM cells. Engine sees 6.5psi of boost and is actually pretty rich, around 11.2 or so in boost. The AFR's aren't my worry right now. It is that ridiculous looking VE table. 130-140 to idle but 40's in boost. That is just retarded. Also he has the baro correction settings wrong. If I correct them to what the book calls for the car won't even start. So I'm thinking I need to start from complete scratch.

I was screwing around with the idle today as it surged a lot. I was actually able to calm it down to near perfect messing with timing tables. Ultimately though I think this is going to be a long process of learning.