Cam break in , additive?

  • #1

    Cam break in , additive?

    I'm about to install my heads that have shneider 270-262 cams with schneider springs, 3 angle valve job. I want toknow if its necessary to put an additive on your oil for proper break in? what additive do you guys use? I currently have conventional valvoline motor oil 10w40 in th car but will be switching to Pennzoil Platinum 10w40.
  • #2
    clostoyo wrote: I'm about to install my heads that have shneider 270-262 cams with schneider springs, 3 angle valve job. I want toknow if its necessary to put an additive on your oil for proper break in? what additive do you guys use? I currently have conventional valvoline motor oil 10w40 in th car but will be switching to Pennzoil Platinum 10w40.
    Comp Cams Break-in Lube is good.

    Must run the cam in for 20 minutes at 2000rpm - 2500rpm to bed them in with the valve train components.

    Rotella T oil with GM EOS (engine oil supplement) is also good. Or anything that adds ZDDP.

    From now on I am using 100ml of LubroMoly MoS2 additive to bump up the molybdenum content of my oil, as it's something many good oils are lacking.

    Can't go wrong with the comp-cams break-in lube, although it is VERY thick.
  • #3
    You are installing regrinds. You will be lubing them with the provided cam lube. No additional additive to the oil in necessary.
    The bullshit stops, when the GREEN light drops.

    Only babies cry about the bottle.
  • #4
    Careless wrote:
    Rotella T oil with GM EOS (engine oil supplement) is also good. Or anything that adds ZDDP.
    GM EOS is what Isky recommends/requires for cam break in, even with regrinds.
  • #5
    ZFast88Z wrote: You are installing regrinds. You will be lubing them with the provided cam lube. No additional additive to the oil in necessary.
    i thought the cam lube was assembly lube only, and not break-in lube to be used for the first couple of oil changes such as the EOS?

    wouldn't the only thing unaffected by regrinds be the bedding of the base circle lobes that contact the head? the regrinding removes any wear pattern associated with valve actuation lobes, no?

    any detailed reason why bedding isn't required?
  • #6
    On regrinds you really don't need a break in additive. Break in additives are geared towards solid lifter applications to aid the camshaft from flattening under load. The high zinc content provides the added support along with other mixtures in the comp break in. For new billet cams I suggest it as they've never been in a dynamic enviroment so its essential to use an additive to aid in the beginning process. On regrinds however…not required or really needed. Use a thicker weight oil and you will be just fine.
    Nissan Race Engine Machine Shop
    Dedicated to VG performance and design http://www.epracing.net
  • #7
    Tech@EPR wrote: On regrinds you really don't need a break in additive. Break in additives are geared towards solid lifter applications to aid the camshaft from flattening under load. The high zinc content provides the added support along with other mixtures in the comp break in. For new billet cams I suggest it as they've never been in a dynamic enviroment so its essential to use an additive to aid in the beginning process. On regrinds however…not required or really needed. Use a thicker weight oil and you will be just fine.
    Thanks for this information. What weight is ideal? I live in Florida and currently have 10w30 , should I go up to 20w50?
  • #8
    20w50 will work fine. What I would do is run a 10w30 to do your crucial break in…then switch to a 20w50 soon after for the remainder of your break in period.
    Nissan Race Engine Machine Shop
    Dedicated to VG performance and design http://www.epracing.net
  • #9
    Tech@EPR wrote: 20w50 will work fine. What I would do is run a 10w30 to do your crucial break in…then switch to a 20w50 soon after for the remainder of your break in period.
    Ok thanks. The crucial break in period would be the forst 500 miles correct? Then regular break in with the 20w50 oil the next 1,000.
  • #10
    less than that....250 with the 10w30 then get straight into 20w50
    Nissan Race Engine Machine Shop
    Dedicated to VG performance and design http://www.epracing.net
  • #11
    Tech@EPR wrote: less than that....250 with the 10w30 then get straight into 20w50
    Okay, thanks.