90 degree hose


  • 90 degree hose

    The 90 degree coolant connecting hose under the fuel Pressure regulator has sprung a leak.

    How much am I going to cuss removing and replacing it? Is there a good order or method?

    I have the AC compressor bracket removed. Thanks.
    Everything is Meaningless.

  • #2
    removing it without taking off the timing covers is a sucky frustrating job, oh yes there will be profanity! Stock 10mm clamps are a pain but the real issue lies in putting on the new one. I typically soak the new 90 degree hose in some very hot water and lube both inside holes (insert chuckle here). This makes it a bit more pliable and easier to smoosh into place.

    When I replace them during a standard timing belt job I just take a dremel and slice the rear timing cover right down the middle and slightly bend it out of the way. Makes life much easier and when you bolt the front cover on it holds it steady in place....bam!....like it never was cut


    Good luck!

  • #3
    Easiest way is to remove everything timing related. This includes rear timing cover. While you're at it, do the belt, water pump, chts and harness, and seals while in there if you haven't done so recently. However, if it's leaking, chances are your timing belt is already contaminated and should be replaced either way.



    *****of course gregmatic would submit his post as I'm typing mine haha.

  • #4
    If the timing belt scares you, you can always remove the plenum (and if necessary, LIM) to get access. It's a bitch and a half either way. I had mine give on I95 halfway to Florida. Luckily, dealer still carries them for about $11 a pop.
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  • #5
    Yep, that's about what I thought the PIA factor might be- just lookin' at it.

    I did just complete the 3.3 swap last year so, now I just need that new 90 replacement hose. Thank you all.
    Everything is Meaningless.

  • #6
    I did this not long ago. Removed the ac idler bracket and removed the upper rad hose/rad cap piece from the lower intake manifold. Pulled it out with the 90°hose attached. Then R & R the hose and slide it all back down with new worm type clamps.
    http://z31performance.com/showthread…2-2-(-now-NA2T
    My build thread (:

  • #7
    That Sir, sounds like the answer I was looking for. Thank You.
    Everything is Meaningless.

  • #8
    Your welcome. Oh btw I had to remove the fpr too. I just remembered.
    http://z31performance.com/showthread…2-2-(-now-NA2T
    My build thread (:

  • #9
    les_joey_paul…

    That was the EASIEST way to replace that PIA hose I can possibly imagine. Since I have an aftermarket FPR, I didn't even have to remove it.

    THIS is the type of tips/ tricks solutions that need to be easier to find during a search here on Z31P. Thank You again.
    Everything is Meaningless.

  • #10
    Originally posted by PulseCode View Post
    les_joey_paul…

    That was the EASIEST way to replace that PIA hose I can possibly imagine. Since I have an aftermarket FPR, I didn't even have to remove it.

    THIS is the type of tips/ tricks solutions that need to be easier to find during a search here on Z31P. Thank You again.
    I'm glad my strategy helped! I even thought of taking pics while I was doing it. Hands coated in coolant and the hot Florida sun on me… I was just trying to get it done ASAP lol.
    http://z31performance.com/showthread…2-2-(-now-NA2T
    My build thread (:

  • #11
    It can be replaced with out removing any timing belt/cover related parts. Just remove the dizzy and that frees up alot of room. If you have AC, remover the AC belt and tensioner bracket to get more room at the bottom of the hose.

    I do these all the time at work on VG30 and VG33 engines. Takes about an hour if you do it the way I listed above.

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