Front camber question

Make sure bushings aren't worn out. Past that, short of something being bent, there isn't really anything to adjust/fix, at least that I can think of. Front camber is pretty much fixed on the factory suspension.

Brand new prothane bushings. If I didn't tighten the castle nut on the ball joint, could that have an effect? I somehow doubt it would be enough to give it 1 degree of camber, but that is the only thing I can think of.

I would try and fix the other side. Even -1 degree of camber is pretty weak for a McPherson setup.

Could be a variation in about anything. Bushings and ball joints would give the greatest variance. Bent LCA or strut could cause this as well.

Did you use new spring seats/bushings? How is the top mount bushing?

Ball joints are new, both are the same brand and installed at the same time. No spring seats, and the top bushing I am assuming you mean the strut one? Pretty sure they are nonexistent. Everything between the two side is identical as far as I can see, so no idea why there is such a large difference. only easy answer is that there are two different rims on the car and maybe it's a difference in attachment?

Is one lower control longer than the other? That will give more camber on the longer arm. Difference in strut tubes have a different angle of the kingpin for the wheel bearings that changes camber.

It should not be, they were pulled from the same car as replacement for mine. And were the same size when placed next to the parts they were replacing.

There's really not much that hasn't been said, but could be a combination of little things if it isn't the obvious…

Perhaps the subframe holes are egged? Maybe the spring isn't seated correctly on one side raising ride height affecting camber? What if your replacement wheel isn't 100% true?

And the fsm clearly states about a 1 degree range of variability in struts, so it's also possible one strut is on the lower side, and coincidentally, the other is on the higher side… it is possible to have them measured, along with the straightness of the tube itself

Maybe suspension settling has to do with it?

This is my lign of thinking. I am going to be getting brand new tires for the rears as well next month, so then I can have a matching set in front for testing. I did not see any egg shaped holes, but I can reinvestigate for sure. I also have had the side that is -1* taken apart several times due to swapping springs, then I put the spring in wrong, so I am going to check the driver's side to make sure that the spring is fully seated.

These are all great suggestions and I appreciate the assistance!

Here is hoping, the car was on a lift when they replaced the tires, and it was straight to the alignment shop ~2 miles driven distance

I think we have a winner. I checked the height on the front and it looks like the side with 0* camber is about half an inch taller between the tire and the fender. Gunna take it apart next weekend and reseat everything.

How did this turn out?