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My 86 turbo won't move after replacing the rear control arm bushings and from what I've been reading I most likely/hopefully just haven't popped them back into the diff all the way.
I just want to clarify before I go whacking things, I was able to seat the spline into the pumpkin enough so that it won't come out without popping it again. It doesn't appear that there's that much space left to drive it in further, but this is my first attempt at this.
When I get home I will jack it up and place 2x4's under the tires, lower the car and see if I can tap them in with a rubber hammer.
I did have to get another half shaft from an 85 turbo since I tore one of the boots on mine (but will eventually rebuild it). -
The half shafts should go in far enough to where you cannot see the splines.
You don't need to place the car on 2x4s. I would not do this.
Assuming they are not inserted all the way, get under there and use a mallet/hammer and tap them in further.
Maybe take a pic of the half shafts to the diff and let us see it. -
Thanks. As far as I know they are pretty far inserted in to the diff, and I believe none of the spline is still showing. As I said, I was apparently able to push them past the C-clip in the diff as they are somewhat locked in and cannot just be pulled out of the diff without the aid of a prybar.... I will take pics later tonight and post em. -
If you can't tug them out without a prybar, I'd guess they are inserted correctly. You didn't mix up the passenger and driver's axles, right? They are different lengths. -
ya I can't just tug on them to get it out of the diff, I'd have to use a prybar to pop it again, so it seemed as if they were seated all the way.
I compared the J/Y replacement with my existing one and they measured to be the same length. -
Does this look as if it could be tapped in further to make a difference? I'm gonna bet my measurements were off and the part was mismarked as a R when it's a L.
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/d…psb80a0d57.jpg
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/d…psa93a65e2.jpg -
That looks normal.
So can you explain again what the issue is? -
When I let out the clutch in any gear the car does not move but I hear a whirring/spinning sound, no grinding tho.
Everything was fine before it went up for me to replace the rear control arm bushings. I only removed the control arms, had the jack stands under the crossmember and only removed the half shafts from the diff. -
Long shot but rear drivers axle could be broken inside the boot. -
Start the car, put it in gear, and release the clutch. Check under the car and see if you can tell what is spinning--it should tell you what the problem is. Be careful. You can use a mirror or video camera or whatever as well. -
Ya I'll put my camera under it and take some video tonight. -
The LH axle is just spinning but the tire isn't so I apparently messed up the joint, but how? I wasn't an asshole getting it out, I thought I was pretty gentle.
On a separate issue, I ordered new boot repair kits but now my question is, the FSM says when repairing outer boot to put match marks on the slide joint housing and inner race before disassembling, but it came apart before that could happen. How big a deal is this? I can still put marks on the inner race and drive shaft. -
Yup, if it's just spinning then it's either the outboard CV joint or the axle-to-hub connection somehow… -
Just back from a test drive, definitely a noticeable difference. Finally I can get some new tires and alignment.
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