Door Lock Cylinder

[Raydiance]

I am writing of my own anecdotal experience. I have no way of knowing if my '89 Z31 is like all or most of the rest out there.
1. The nuts that have to be removed to take the outside door handle with the lock cylinder are 10 mm. They cannot be removed with a typical socket, even a 1/4 inch tool. You simply cannot get the socket onto the right nut (facing the inside of the door) because of space and the glass is very slightly in the way of putting a typical socket on the left nut.
2. The window must be closed. If it is open, access is totally blocked.
3. We used a 10 mm ratchet wrench and its opposite open end wrench to get both. Interestingly, one twist made the nut finger loose. You can see the one on the left through a small hole. The one on the right has to be accessed by putting your hand into the door and feeling for it. You cannot see it.
But when that is done, you aren't finished removing the door handle/lock cylinder. There is a small Phillips head screw that you cannot access as a first step because the angle just won't allow access. However, once the two 10 mm nuts are removed, the handle is loose and you can move it enough to get a Phillips screw driver on. Once that screw is removed, the door handle will come out.

I am writing of my own anecdotal experience. I have no way of knowing if my '89 Z31 is like all or most of the rest out there.
1. The nuts that have to be removed to take the outside door handle with the lock cylinder are 10 mm. They cannot be removed with a typical socket, even a 1/4 inch tool. You simply cannot get the socket onto the right nut (facing the inside of the door) because of space and the glass is very slightly in the way of putting a typical socket on the left nut.
2. The window must be closed. If it is open, access is totally blocked.
3. We used a 10 mm ratchet wrench and its opposite open end wrench to get both. Interestingly, one twist made the nut finger loose. You can see the one on the left through a small hole. The one on the right has to be accessed by putting your hand into the door and feeling for it. You cannot see it.
But when that is done, you aren't finished removing the door handle/lock cylinder. There is a small Phillips head screw that you cannot access as a first step because the angle just won't allow access. However, once the two 10 mm nuts are removed, the handle is loose and you can move it enough to get a Phillips screw driver on. Once that screw is removed, the door handle will come out.

[Raydiance]

You cannot use a socket. The nuts, again, are 10 mm. We used a ratchet 10 mm and an open end 10 mm. Since we (my lock smith and I) have finally succeeded in removing the door handle and lock, I am able to promise you that it can be done. You have to remove various screws and move rods. You are almost certainly going to drop nuts and screws into the door. Use a magnet to remove them.

You cannot use a socket. The nuts, again, are 10 mm. We used a ratchet 10 mm and an open end 10 mm. Since we (my lock smith and I) have finally succeeded in removing the door handle and lock, I am able to promise you that it can be done. You have to remove various screws and move rods. You are almost certainly going to drop nuts and screws into the door. Use a magnet to remove them.

[kaur]

A typical socket will NOT work. Other cars may be different but on my car the window glass is very slightly, maybe 2 mm over the nut. Therefore you cannot get a socket onto the nut. There may be specialty sockets that would work. A very short socket or a socket that has the end of it tapered would do the job.

A typical socket will NOT work. Other cars may be different but on my car the window glass is very slightly, maybe 2 mm over the nut. Therefore you cannot get a socket onto the nut. There may be specialty sockets that would work. A very short socket or a socket that has the end of it tapered would do the job.