No power in low rpm range

  • #1

    No power in low rpm range

    I recently traded for a fairly nice 88 na z. It has almost no power on the bottom end. Looking under the hood I noticed that there is a bolt missing from the distributor cap. Wondering if this could be causing the lack of power on the bottom end and a slight miss I can hear through the intake? Also could the loss of power on the bottom end be from losses in the drive line? The sub frame bushings need replaced. I'm also guessing that the differential bushing will need replaced as well. Thanks Anthony
  • #2
    i would bet the distributor is off a tooth, check the timing
    Hmmm, Whats next?
    Full Size Bronco, smashing shit.

    84ZXT
  • #3
    I will check that this weekend. 15° btdc correct? And a dumb question but what cylinder is number 1? I just built a Ford 302 and number one was the front passenger side piston is it the same with this motor?
  • #4
    cyl 1 is frt passenger side. timing depends on year and model, 15 will be ok. download your fsm here http://xenonzcar.com/z31/reference.html
    Hmmm, Whats next?
    Full Size Bronco, smashing shit.

    84ZXT
  • #5
    Well that did not go as planned. Going to have to replace the distributor. Went to replace the cap and rotor and one of the bolts is completely stripped and the hook is all chewed up. I might be able to put helicoil in it but Its probably not worth the effort. Anyone on here from northwest Ohio? I could use someone who knows the z' s well to help diagnose the clunk in the rear. I'm pretty sure the diff is about done as well.
  • #6
    Clunk in the rear is oftentimes caused by worn subframe bushings and/or diff mount.
    '86 300ZXT GLL
    '78 Datsun 280Z BP
    '11 Saab 9-3 Aero XWD
  • #7
    The diff mount and bushing were what I figured as well, but I believe there is more going on than that. I get clunks from the rear going down the road and hitting bumps as well.
  • #8
    Rear shocks and suspension bushings are probably also worn out. Pretty common for our aging chassis. You might take a chance to get it on a lift and look over the underside.
    '86 300ZXT GLL
    '78 Datsun 280Z BP
    '11 Saab 9-3 Aero XWD
  • #9
    I would buy a Haynes manual and download the FSM. Pull codes off the computer, check timing and take it from there. Owning Zs is a love hate relationship. Its a vicious cycle.
  • #10
    I downloaded the fsm already. I think im going to address the rear first and then the motor. It runs fairly well and holding down the distributor cap makes a difference. I just need to replace it its rather corroded on the inside of it. Plus the screw being boogered up the way it is I will just replace it and then check the timing and such.
  • #11
    Get an OEM cap and rotor. I have had issues with after market but I'm running boost. Idk how bad your rear is. Mine will sometimes clunk depending on how I let go of the clutch. It could be a mount or sub fram or both. Best of luck.