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88 Turbo, has power but will not crank at all. I have been able to push start the car, so I figured it was the starter. I have replaced the starter, the starter relay and also confirmed that the battery is good. I was planning to next replace the crank angle sensor, but do not want to keep throwing parts at the car without knowing for sure what the problem is. Any help is greatly appreciated! -
If it's a manual, maybe check that the the clutch interlock switch and circuit is functional, or jumper it. EL-17 in the 88 FSM
84 AE/Shiro #683/Shiro #820/84 Turbo -
Yes the car is a manual (Shiro). Where would I locate the clutch interlock switch? I looked on the back of the clutch pedal and did not see anything. I appreciate the help!
Originally posted by Z_Karma View Post -
It's at the top of the pedal assm. This picture shows it unplugged and missing the little rubber piece that goes between it and the pedal. You need the little rubber piece to push the switch, they all deteriorate at some point, but are still available from nissan. Clutch ones are green IIRC and the cruise and brake rubbers are clear.
https://i.imgur.com/gl5It0z.jpg
and another with the pedal assm out.
https://i.imgur.com/AkhBt1e.jpg -
I took a look at the back of the clutch pedal assembly and the green rubber piece is intact. When the clutch pedal is resting the green rubber piece leans against the white plastic pin and depresses it almost all the way. There is a small amount of the white pin visible as the pin is not depressed entirely. I tried to capture it in this first photo. The second photo is of the clutch pressed down to show the condition of the green rubber piece.
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Could be a bad switch still. You could just jump it with a wire to eliminate it or test the switch with a continuity tester. -
Is there a DIY write up for testing the switch and or eliminating it? I appreciate the help, thanks guys!
Originally posted by JSM View Post -
If you want to see if the switch is the cause of the problem:
1. Unplug switch
2. Take a small piece of wire, strip both ends
3. Plug them into the plug
4. Make sure Z is out of gear/depress clutch (for safety, please don't start in gear and run people over or use cruise)
5. Try to start
I have mine looped on my red Z.
To test the switch itself, use an ohmeter on switch to test.
Looping the plug allows you to start the Z without pressing the clutch pedal down, but also defeats the cruise cut off too (or does it keep cruise from working?, on or the other), so it's good to have the switch working. I don't have cruise on my red Z.Last edited by Dunkine; 08-19-2018, 01:41 PM. -
It's alive!!! Thank you guys so much for the advice. Is the entire switch assembly with this piece available from Nissan? I went to unplug the clutch bypass switch to jump the switch with a piece of wire and found this:
Last edited by Turbo88; 08-25-2018, 12:45 PM. -
Bump, anyone know the part # and if it is still available from Nissan? -
84 AE/Shiro #683/Shiro #820/84 Turbo -
I love Nissanpartsdeal site. The hardest part is finding the right diagram. Their shipping sucks though. Iâve gotten missing parts, partial parts, and bent gaskets. They always quickly make it right though. What sucks is it could have been avoided altogether.
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