Separate Ball joint from knuckle


  • Separate Ball joint from knuckle

    Hmm. Got the front control arms off and I'm going to be replacing the ball joints.

    I took off the nut between the ball joint stud and the knuckle, but they seem pretty stuck together.

    BFH on the ball joint stud to knock it off the knuckle or is that a big no-no?
    Justin
    1986 NA 2-seater
    SCCA Solo E-Street Prepared #31
    Race Videos
    Build Thread

  • #2
    I use a press quite often....haha
    - VG30DET (HE341) 86 300ZX - 1982 280ZX Turbo - Headered NA 1986 300ZX 2+2 - 2000 Xterra -

  • #3
    press is ideal or a BFH will work

  • #4
    I usually get frisky with a pickle fork and a BFH but have used a press the last few times, no points deducted for going caveman on it

  • #5
    BFH it is! Just making sure I wasn't going to hurt the knuckle or control arm by doing so. Don't care for the ball joint since it's getting replaced. Thanks guys!
    Justin
    1986 NA 2-seater
    SCCA Solo E-Street Prepared #31
    Race Videos
    Build Thread

  • #6
    Originally posted by Gregmatic
    I usually get frisky with a pickle fork and a BFH but have used a press the last few times, no points deducted for going caveman on it
    ^This.
    Always works for me.

  • #7
    My late model arms also had a c-clip on the ball joint, just as an FYI, but a hammer does work wonders if you don't have access to a press

  • #8
    I places the knuckle across my vise jaws, and smack the castle nut on the BJ a few times. Then it pops right off.

  • #9
    Blah, new issue: I ripped one of the dust boots upon installation (like a jackass). I'm using the MOOG ball joints--does anyone know if I can buy just the boots somewhere? Does any boot fit or does it have to be from MOOG?
    Justin
    1986 NA 2-seater
    SCCA Solo E-Street Prepared #31
    Race Videos
    Build Thread

  • #10
    I think when I had bought MOOG ball joints, I had also bought poly dust boots in the parts store off the shelf and they worked. I would double check with another member though.
    Build Log Link: http://z31performance.com/showthread…-VG33-HX35-WIP

  • #11
    Ball joints are my biggest enemy trying to press out of the LCA. Not sure if its over the years, or if I am doing something wrong but replacement ball joints are a pretty loose fit back into the LCA hole. I typically tack weld them into place.

    Steering knuckle removal from ball joint = BFH with no issues.
    86na - BlueZ
    Shiro #366 - Kouki Monster
    85t - Mr Tickles

  • #12
    I installed new moog ball joints on my 86 last weekend. I used an OTC ball joint separator to split the knuckle off. Think I paid $30 on amazon for it. I kept cranking on it and nothing was happening…finally thought, one more crank and if it doesn't work, then something must be wrong. Well nothing happened. Set it down to think about it, and POP it violently separated apart LOL! Was sure glad I left the nut loosely on. The other side did the same thing.

    I used a shop press for my ball joints, worked like a charm, and is the way I would suggest you do it.
    1986 300zx turbo, 5-speed, T-Top 2 seater

  • #13
    I use a plastic dead blow hammer or a pickle fork.



    1988 300ZX Turbo, Shiro Special #760
    1988 300ZX Turbo Automatic (wife's car)
    1991 Hard-body 2WD

    http://zccw.org/zccw/?page_id=1215

  • #14
    Thought I'd add some info for future searches.

    Easiest method I've come across for balljoints is:

    FIRST: Get some safety glasses/face guard whatever. Not kidding. These things will pop you in the face.
    1: Remove C-Clip
    2: Remove control arm from car
    3: Grasp control arm and place the threaded portion of the ball joint facing down
    4: Slam that mother against the concrete and watch the ball joint pop out

  • #15
    I used a steering wheel puller i had around the shop to seperate the ball joint to the knuckle. Don't forget to leave the nut threaded on if not booom!!it could probably hit you in the johnson..lol Mine shot off pretty violently.