Crushed frame rail repair options

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  • #1

    Crushed frame rail repair options

    My AE has a pretty badly crushed passenger rail.
    The good thing is it's not rusted out.



    I was thinking about how to approach repairing it.

    1)Trying to weld on some bolts and pull it with a slide hammer, like body shop studs.

    2)Shaping a 16ga sheet and weld it in place over it. I picked up a plate of weldsteel from Lowes today.

    3)Cutting it out along the creases, hammering it flat and welding it back into place.
    Last edited by Z_Karma; 08-13-2020, 02:28 PM. Reason: moved topic from Engine Mechanical to Suspension, Chassis, and Brakes


    84 AE/Shiro #683/Shiro #820/84 Turbo
  • #2
    How did you crush it? Jack? I say don't worry about it.
    Mike_GruiZinga
    DISCLAIMER:
    These are sold as is, with no warranty expressed or implied. They are not intended for use ever. I do not condone using them for anything but paperweights. Your safest bet would be to set them on a shelf in your garage, and bench race with your buddies about how awesome your 20 year old sports car will be some day.
  • #3
    i have to do this to mine eventually too, and IMHO it would be best to cut the bottom off and straighten the sides, then weld some new, 11ga (1/8") flat on there so it has a bit more strength. When i do mine i plan to use some round chassis tubing so i have a strong, rounded framerail for using stands and jacks
    87 Turbo: Stock VG33, stock cams, maxima intake, T5, DXD stage 3 clutch, tubular stainless headers, GT3582r, full 3" stainless exhaust, E85 680cc inj. and Nistune
    current time: 13.39@106, 2.05 60' 12psi with old stock 85T motor and street tires!
  • #4
    do nothing and put some coating over what is left.

    You did more damage taking off the coating than the crushed metal would have done.
  • #5
    Z31P
    - VG30DET (HE341) 86 300ZX - 1982 280ZX Turbo - Headered NA 1986 300ZX 2+2 - 2000 Xterra -
  • #6
    [quote]michaelp wrote:
    Originally posted by nutsaq
    do nothing and put some coating over what is left.

    You did more damage taking off the coating than the crushed metal would have done.
    OR

    Do the proper thing and repair it and put coating over it.
    http://home.comcast.net/~gwmolitor/frame_repair.html
    …and how much HP do you have at 0 boost
  • #7
    Russ84na wrote: http://home.comcast.net/~gwmolitor/frame_repair.html
    Hmm.. Sinse that will be little more thougher that stock. Has anyone thinked to make boltable X under the car?
    1-2 hard bolts thrue framerail in all ends. That way it will be removable if need to remove gearbox or exhaust.
    Body should not flex that bad in tight ( track ) corners?

    [attachment=0:h6wkpql2]nissan_z31.jpg[/attachment:h6wkpql2]
    Jukka Kivinen - Europe / Finland - '88 Turbo 2+2 Targa
    Datsun Nissan Sports Cars of Finland
    http://www.z31turbo.com / http://www.z31na.com
  • #8
    I will have to do some frame rail repair in the future as well as previous owners or shops decided that was a good jacking point. Im not too worried about it now, but it is something I want to address.
    '85 300zx turbo: exhaust, intercooler, coilovers, etc…SOLD, will be missed
    '86 300zx turbo: starting over
    '97 Dodge 2500: 12v Cummins …selling and will be missed
    '94 Jeep Cherokee: D60 Front 14b rear, both locked and 5.38 gears, 37" mtr's
    2015 Ram 2500 megacab laramie cummins black appearance package
  • #9
    It was like this when i bought the car last year.
    http://z31performance.com/forum/…p?f=13&t=15718

    wwgd
    (what would Gary do?)
    yeah, i guess i already knew the answer before asking the question.
    I'll clean it up, prime it and cap it.


    84 AE/Shiro #683/Shiro #820/84 Turbo
  • #10
    That is a great looking 3" exhaust system you have.
  • #11
    i would :

    - try the stud-pull trick first. make sure your surrounding floor is tough.
    - forget welding over it.
    - forget cutting it out and bending it back and rewelding.
    - if cutting anything out, replace with all new metal.
  • #12
    I'm wondering if a stud welder would work on that thicker (14ga?) frame rail metal.

    I 120.00 HF stud welder wouldn't be a bad investment for this project..and the Shiros.


    84 AE/Shiro #683/Shiro #820/84 Turbo
  • #13
    Careless wrote: i would :

    - try the stud-pull trick first. make sure your surrounding floor is tough.
    - forget welding over it.
    - forget cutting it out and bending it back and rewelding.
    - if cutting anything out, replace with all new metal.
    +1 :lease
  • #14
    Kennedy wrote: Hmm.. Sinse that will be little more thougher that stock. Has anyone thinked to make boltable X under the car?
    1-2 hard bolts thrue framerail in all ends. That way it will be removable if need to remove gearbox or exhaust.
    Body should not flex that bad in tight ( track ) corners?

    [attachment=0:1ldjuri3]nissan_z31.jpg[/attachment:1ldjuri3]
    It's been done. There's a guy who made up that and other chassis braces for… Maronee, maybe? Can't remember, "they" are willing to reproduce as they have a jig but it's in Japan. And the Stramans had an X-brace as well, if memory serves.
    Feedback- viewtopic.php?f=18&t=19840
  • #15
    I don't think it was Maronee, but I think he was the first to post pics of the car it was on, that is if you are referring to the white one. I believe it was first posted in the Mr. K's b-day celebration thread from quiz. As for the Stramans, I have no clue, Z-bum would be a good one to ask.
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