Timing Belt Change


  • #16
    i r teh noobz;322505 wrote: The gear was a total pain to remove on my 88. I ended up drilling and tapping it for a steering wheel puller. I ordered a new one through NAPA for about 30 bucks.


    I know that feel bro.

    on the other hand, I was able to slide the gear off with my hands on my other 88. Just depends on if you get lucky or not.

    1988 300zxt. gt35, stance, etc. Wheels: Varrstoen ES2 18x9.5 et-13 225/40. 18x10.5 et0 245/40
    1990 jetta vr6'd

  • #17
    DeleriousZ;322528 wrote:

    I know that feel bro.

    on the other hand, I was able to slide the gear off with my hands on my other 88. Just depends on if you get lucky or not.
    ^This, though it seems most w series I have played with come off by hand, a/b's have never done so for me.
    Hmmm, Whats next?
    Full Size Bronco, smashing shit.

    84ZXT

  • #18
    Yea, I saw a youtube video of this. I know i've got drops of oil coming from somewhere, just not sure where. I'll check it out when I get home.

    Again, the main reason to get the gear off is to change the seal, correct?

  • #19
    yes filipe. to change the crankshaft seal and oil pump seal.
    if you don't break the gear, then it can be re used.
    I wasn't able to pull mine off…So I ended up leaving it…
    But it does need to be done eventually, though.
    http://z31performance.com/showthread…2-2-(-now-NA2T
    My build thread (:

  • #20
    Thanks for the clarification. I'll locate the leak, and go from there. Hopefully it's not the one behind the crankshaft timing pulley. But with my luck…

  • #21
    replace it anyways, or it will saturate your new belt within the 60k mile service schedule, and all your work will be worthless.

  • #22
    what do you mean saturate my new belt?

  • #23
    oil drops from that crank seal, touching the timing belt and it weakens the belt, i would also think it could allow the belt to slip a few teeth during operation… which wouldn't be good for piston to valve interactions.
    http://z31performance.com/showthread…2-2-(-now-NA2T
    My build thread (:

  • #24
    thanks for the explanation. guess it's something to keep an eye on if I don't do it.

    well, this is great information. I'll have to get the car up on stands easter weekend. will I be able to see the belt at all by doing so? I heard the belt is pretty tucked away?

  • #25
    I didn't lift my car at all when I did the t-belt stuff I worked from the top.
    Justin
    1986 NA 2-seater
    SCCA Solo E-Street Prepared #31
    Race Videos
    Build Thread

  • #26
    well it all can be done from the top, a few things are easier to be done from below, maybe draining coolant and some of the lower section bolts. But it isn't totally necessary.
    http://z31performance.com/showthread…2-2-(-now-NA2T
    My build thread (:

  • #27
    Gotcha. But to even see the belt, before I start dismantling it, is that possible from the top?

  • #28
    you can do everything from the top. so yes, you can see everything from the top. and don't just "look out" for drops of oil touching your timing belt. what im saying is… replace the crank seal so that all the work your doing isn't a waste of time. if your crank seals is fine before you start, and then it fucks off in 100 miles, it's not something you can "look out for". it's something that will rear its ugly head by coating everything in your engine bay in oil, and potentially screwing up your motor if your belt gets saturated in oil.

    a LOT of oil can come through that crank seal. especially on a turbo car.

  • #29
    OK. I see what you're saying. What makes it go out? Is it common on a car with 79k? Are the camshafts just as good/bad?

    My worry is attempting to change them and doing more harm than good.

  • #30
    Next question:

    Where's everyone's preferred place to shop? Shipping time is not an issue. I've got 3 weeks before I plan on lifting a wrench.