Y u no bleed?

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  • #16
    Link to the product you used please?
  • #17
    Das it mayne:
    http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-b…kit-69328.html

    It feels every bit of what a Harbor Freight tool is. But for $24, even if you only get one use out of it, it's worth it imo.
    " I spend another hour trying to rip the bolt out of the subframe, pausing every five minutes to scream and contemplate how I get myself into these situations. Two cars over, a guy urinates. I watch the steam waft off of the fresh puddle in the gravel. It merges with the blowing snow and is cut by the aerodynamic wedge of a nearby Fiero. Beautiful. Another pry and the carrier finally falls to earth. I walk out of there $80 lighter, which makes me more mad." - Brian Kolar
  • #18
    I'd spend a few bucks more and go with a mityvac, i've had mine ~15 years and it still sucks like the day it was new


    84 AE/Shiro #683/Shiro #820/84 Turbo
  • #19
    i started with that one, but it didn't work correctly out of the box. I still find it odd that only one side of the rears is having this issue. Have you guys ever had to replace that 3-way junction thing? I'm trying new lines tonight, but I don't have much faith this will resolve the issue. The brake hoses are brand new Goodrich SS's.
    " I spend another hour trying to rip the bolt out of the subframe, pausing every five minutes to scream and contemplate how I get myself into these situations. Two cars over, a guy urinates. I watch the steam waft off of the fresh puddle in the gravel. It merges with the blowing snow and is cut by the aerodynamic wedge of a nearby Fiero. Beautiful. Another pry and the carrier finally falls to earth. I walk out of there $80 lighter, which makes me more mad." - Brian Kolar
  • #20
    So this was my third RockAuto A-1Cardone caliper.... and it's leaking. Returning and buying one from some place else. Tiny leak around the piston seal again.
    " I spend another hour trying to rip the bolt out of the subframe, pausing every five minutes to scream and contemplate how I get myself into these situations. Two cars over, a guy urinates. I watch the steam waft off of the fresh puddle in the gravel. It merges with the blowing snow and is cut by the aerodynamic wedge of a nearby Fiero. Beautiful. Another pry and the carrier finally falls to earth. I walk out of there $80 lighter, which makes me more mad." - Brian Kolar
  • #21
    Originally posted by Urstin
    i started with that one, but it didn't work correctly out of the box. I still find it odd that only one side of the rears is having this issue. Have you guys ever had to replace that 3-way junction thing? I'm trying new lines tonight, but I don't have much faith this will resolve the issue. The brake hoses are brand new Goodrich SS's.
    Nope, but I do jack up the rear of the car pretty high so its easier for the air to overcome any trapped areas. Same for when I go do the front.

    Originally posted by Urstin View Post
    So this was my third RockAuto A-1Cardone caliper.... and it's leaking. Returning and buying one from some place else. Tiny leak around the piston seal again.
    Have you tried taking it apart to ensure seals are good and its not just sand or piece of material that is causing the leak? I have never rebuilt rears, but numerous fronts. Its pretty easy after you figure out how to take it all apart.
    86na - BlueZ
    Shiro #366 - Kouki Monster
    85t - Mr Tickles
  • #22
    Alright homies, we're almost there! I used teflon tape on the bleeder valves to help keep vacuum from pulling air from around the threads. This helped, but didn't solve that problem. The air that was coming out of the bleeders on the now GOOD caliper in the rear, was coming from outside the caliper. I could see this because with a second person, and no vacuum, the fluid poured out of the bleeder like it should.

    Pedal felt great, so I decided to take it for a ride! Annnnnd lots of pedal travel and hardly any braking while the car is on. I noticed the hose a the vacuum booster had seen better days, so I'm replacing that tonight with a new check-valve and clamps. Jesus. I think my issue was many parts were failing (even new RockAuto parts), and it created a huge headache.

    Usually I'm trying to get the car to go, now all I want to do is just get the damn thing to stop! lolol.
    " I spend another hour trying to rip the bolt out of the subframe, pausing every five minutes to scream and contemplate how I get myself into these situations. Two cars over, a guy urinates. I watch the steam waft off of the fresh puddle in the gravel. It merges with the blowing snow and is cut by the aerodynamic wedge of a nearby Fiero. Beautiful. Another pry and the carrier finally falls to earth. I walk out of there $80 lighter, which makes me more mad." - Brian Kolar
  • #23
    The car stops :O Thanks for your help dudez!
    " I spend another hour trying to rip the bolt out of the subframe, pausing every five minutes to scream and contemplate how I get myself into these situations. Two cars over, a guy urinates. I watch the steam waft off of the fresh puddle in the gravel. It merges with the blowing snow and is cut by the aerodynamic wedge of a nearby Fiero. Beautiful. Another pry and the carrier finally falls to earth. I walk out of there $80 lighter, which makes me more mad." - Brian Kolar
  • #24
    My favorite and most effective way to bleed brakes in my opinion can be done with one person. Get yourself a tall bottle like a mouthwash bottle or a 2 liter and fill it 1/4 of the way with fluid. Now make shire your master cyl is full. Now take a piece of vacuum line about 2 feet long and put one end in the bottle and the other on the bleeder making shire the end in the bottle is submerged in fluid. Now open the bleeder 1/2 of a turn and pump the pedal slowly ten times then top the master off and pump ten more times and so on until you have pumped the pedal 40 times at every wheel then go back around and re bleed every wheel with one more session of ten pumps
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