Help....Going crazy!!!


  • Help....Going crazy!!!

    Hi:

    Recently I installed an ACT clutch and after 75-100 miles started slipping. I started by changing both master and slave clutch cylinders and I noticed the pedal had no pressure. I took the tranny off and the clutch was covered in tranny fluid. The input shaft seal was bad so I replaced it. I bought from clutch masters a stage 5 kit, with the 6 puck bronze, ceramic whatever it is, installed a re-surfaced flywheel and immediatly, i noticed the pedal with no pressure al all again. I bled the system again, adjusted the pedal and the clutch is still slipping, still no pressure at the pedal, both master and slave cylinders are Tokiko brand, I bled the cylinders at the slave. Any ideas?

    Thanks for all your input! it's driving me nuts!

  • #2
    You bled it wrong, or you adjusted the pedal wrong and are unable to bleed it

    My suggestion is bench bleed the cmc first, see if it's holding pressure, remanufactured ones are often screwy out of the box.. but I can't remember the last slave I had that was bad

  • #3
    G-E;332770 wrote: You bled it wrong, or you adjusted the pedal wrong and are unable to bleed it

    My suggestion is bench bleed the cmc first, see if it's holding pressure, remanufactured ones are often screwy out of the box.. but I can't remember the last slave I had that was bad
    Thanks for your quick answer!

    Whats a CMC and how do I bench bleed the cylinder?
    Thank you so much for your help!

  • #4
    Clutch Master Cylinder. Do you happen to have a Haynes Manual? I would suggest going and buying one as well as downloading your year of factory service manual from http://www.xenonz31.com/reference.html. This will help you greatly.
    Build Log Link: http://z31performance.com/showthread…-VG33-HX35-WIP

  • #5
    ZEricMZ;332797 wrote: Clutch Master Cylinder. Do you happen to have a Haynes Manual? I would suggest going and buying one as well as downloading your year of factory service manual from http://www.xenonz31.com/reference.html. This will help you greatly.
    No, I don't.....used to have o couple before I moved to the States but of course I lost them in the move. I was looking for one in Auto Zone or something but could not find one. I have changed a couple of those cylinders but I don't like any of the aftermarket since they can be used for so many cars, years and models. I guess I'll just buy the original ones and the line just to be sure is nothing related with the hydraulic system. And what about those diverter valves? Do those go bad? Never changed one but just in case....

  • #6
    Try rockauto?

  • #7
    Well guys:

    Changed both master and slave cylinders, both ordered OEM from courtesy nissan, as well as the clutch line. Bled it again and nothing, the pedal does not have any pressure at all, the only thing I noticed was where the line connects to the damper, I can't get that tight it just keeps rolling.

  • #8
    You can bypass the damper. Buy an S130 front brake hose and run that from the clutch line straight to the slave cylinder.

    That's probably not going to solve your no pedal pressure issue though, unless you have brake fluid leaking out of the connection between the damper and the clutch line. You don't have to keep adding brake fluid to the master cylinder reservoir, do you?
    Zoey - 1987 Z31T GLL - HKS EVC / CM SS 3" turbo-back / Stance GR+
    Black Betty - 2014 Audi C7 S6 APR1

  • #9
    Yeah, like frostvectron said.
    Zoey - 1987 Z31T GLL - HKS EVC / CM SS 3" turbo-back / Stance GR+
    Black Betty - 2014 Audi C7 S6 APR1

  • #10
    Parker;333658 wrote: You can bypass the damper. Buy an S130 front brake hose and run that from the clutch line straight to the slave cylinder.

    That's probably not going to solve your no pedal pressure issue though, unless you have brake fluid leaking out of the connection between the damper and the clutch line. You don't have to keep adding brake fluid to the master cylinder reservoir, do you?
    Well, before I changed the cylinders (today) I did noticed that the liquid was low, but I dont know if it was when I was bleeding it last time I forgot to add more, the floor was dry, I probably drove the car about 10 mi. after I changed the clutch for the 2nd time. And it still slipping like crazy....gonna try to eliminate the damper to see what happens, I refuse to believe that that pressure plate feels so soggy on the pedal, and that can't handle 400 hp....

    Thank you guys for all your help!

  • #11
    clutch pedal problems dont relate what so ever to clutch slip. unless it is adjusted wrong.

    if the clutch is not broken in properly it wont hold power for crap. if the damper is failed/aero-locked then the pedal is going to be junk, bypass and bleed again properly, bench bleeding the clutch master is a bit over-rated, it doesnt take much to get fluid thru it. I usually will also compress the slave cyl by hand, crack the bleeder as a final.
    Damn dirty angels....these cars!

    Current Daily Driver - 86 Turbo.
    Under the cover - THE BANANA… that needs to be re-energized.
    sigpic

  • #12
    Axel kain;333662 wrote: clutch pedal problems dont relate what so ever to clutch slip. unless it is adjusted wrong.

    if the clutch is not broken in properly it wont hold power for crap. if the damper is failed/aero-locked then the pedal is going to be junk, bypass and bleed again properly, bench bleeding the clutch master is a bit over-rated, it doesnt take much to get fluid thru it. I usually will also compress the slave cyl by hand, crack the bleeder as a final.
    Update:

    Well guys, I eliminated the damper and bled the hell out of the cylinders, but I noticed something strange at the fork, it does not retract all the wat, I think the throw out bearing is resting on top of the pressure plate.

    http://youtu.be/K9IG-huZJXM[/video]]

    I recently bought a 86 turbo tranny, and I dont recall if the tranny that I got of the car was a T5, can it be a different clutch fork in the T5? Is the T5 the 30a tranny? because I don't know is there a difference in clutch forks/throw out bearing sleeves. So I changed both cylinders, eliminated the damper, bled the clutch a couple of times adjusted the clutch (the pedal started to stick halfway when I adjusted the clutch) and I have a new 6 puck clutch used for about 10 to 15 miles. Don't know if I should buy a new fork or clutch or what else to do.

    Any ideas?
    Thanks!

  • #13
    your video shows normal resting operation. going the other way is when things get tough! its also normal for the throw out bearing to be on/near the pressure plate, considering that's it home. 86T is T-5, but if unknown can be identified by pictures easily.

    only thing I can think is either traction loss, or clutch slip.
    Damn dirty angels....these cars!

    Current Daily Driver - 86 Turbo.
    Under the cover - THE BANANA… that needs to be re-energized.
    sigpic

  • #14
    The block that has the TOB comes in several heights, you may have the wrong one if it doesn't disengage fully or push all the way

    btw the T5 is the '90a

  • #15
    Axel kain;335213 wrote: your video shows normal resting operation. going the other way is when things get tough! its also normal for the throw out bearing to be on/near the pressure plate, considering that's it home. 86T is T-5, but if unknown can be identified by pictures easily.

    only thing I can think is either traction loss, or clutch slip.
    Is not traction loss, checked with another car next to mine w/ a friend looking at the tires and nothing....