Holset Turbo Install FAQ, and Holset Info w/ Maps


  • #46
    Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

    one more:

    h1e


    DODGE 250 (deisle truck) 89-94.5 ---------------------HOL H1C
    DODGE 2500 (deisle truck) 94.5-00 --------------------HOL HY35
    DODGE 2500 (deisle truck) 00+ manual trans ---------HOL HY35
    Civilize the mind but make savage the body.

  • #47
    Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

    Thats an interesting HX30E map, it is slightly different than the one circulating the internet as the HX30W map. To me it just proves it was an experimental turbo....Please becareful with that map, it is not for any holset turbos on the market. Have you seen this thread?
    http://vgpowered.informe.com/posting.ph … uote&p=784
    http://www.vgpowered.com
    Bridging the gap between VG communities…

    Z shirts and more http://www.cafepress.com/zcargifts

  • #48
    Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

    hm, after further looking into the matter, the only way my friend got that map out of holset is he was talking to a guy who was willing to pull maps for him as long as he sourced the serial, and that's one he gave to him, according to him, he's never seen the turbo sold or available in any way, so I expect it was a turbo used for development on another turbo, which would make sense that it's more hush hush.

    also a bit more good information on what's on the diesels stock incase you want to go locate it yourself.
    pulled from: http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/FAQ/turbo_faq.htm
    Civilize the mind but make savage the body.

  • #49
    Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

    Turbine housing displacement… I wanted to compare the Holset turbine housing to some others I had laying around to see exactly how its size compared to regular Garrett styles. I compared it to a stock Z31 T3 and an old T4 I had laying that, I believe, is somewhere in the lower 1.xx a/r range. I need to find out exactly sometime so that the comparison gives a better idea of the difference but anyway… here are some pictures:

    http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/Holse … /disp1.jpg
    http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/Holse … /disp2.jpg
    http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/Holse … /disp3.jpg
    http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/Holse … /disp4.jpg
    http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/Holse … /disp5.jpg
    http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/Holse … /disp6.jpg
    http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/Holse … /disp7.jpg
    http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/Holse … /disp8.jpg

  • #50
    Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

    I was asked a question on where i clocked the compressor to, my answer is this:

    Outside of the car i made sure the compressor housing could rotate, then i just estimated roughly where it needed to be and installed the turbo. Then in the car i just used a pry bar and stuck it in the compressor housing outlet and pryed on it and clocked it to the position i wanted. Its just a big clip that holds it on so it does move when on there, just got to give it a little muscle. Hope this helps.

  • #51
    Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

    I looked through all of this and I couldn't find out how to clock the exhaust side. I already know how to clock the compressor side but Im not sure about the hot side…There are 4 bolts on the hot side on the hx35 turbo, do I remove them? Because 2 of the bolts will get stuck on the oil entrance and exit. I want to know this because they are not vertical…More like diagonally flowing down like it should. Could I still run like this or is it best to clock the hot side and how? Thank you for your time.

  • #52
    Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

    eat.sleep.blink wrote: I looked through all of this and I couldn't find out how to clock the exhaust side. I already know how to clock the compressor side but Im not sure about the hot side…There are 4 bolts on the hot side on the hx35 turbo, do I remove them? Because 2 of the bolts will get stuck on the oil entrance and exit. I want to know this because they are not vertical…More like diagonally flowing down like it should. Could I still run like this or is it best to clock the hot side and how? Thank you for your time.
    It's BEST if you get it as straight up and down as possible from what I understand, but I CAN'T get my hotside to budge so I'm going to run it diagonally, it should be fine but to clock the hot side you should loosen or remove the 4 bolts holding down the 2 plates on the hotside and then your going to need to break it loose if it's rusted together like mine if not it should come up vertically.

    BTW for the HC1 I had to cut a small chunk off the hot side for it to fit past the support beam in the engine bay.

  • #53
    Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

    PB Blaster, heat, and some light tapping with a hammer should get it loose. I'd personally try taking the housings off, clean them up and lube them a bit, then clock them as needed. Will make your life so much easier.

  • #54
    Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

    eat.sleep.blink wrote: I looked through all of this and I couldn't find out how to clock the exhaust side. I already know how to clock the compressor side but Im not sure about the hot side…There are 4 bolts on the hot side on the hx35 turbo, do I remove them? Because 2 of the bolts will get stuck on the oil entrance and exit. I want to know this because they are not vertical…More like diagonally flowing down like it should. Could I still run like this or is it best to clock the hot side and how? Thank you for your time.
    The hotside can be an A**hole i wont lie. Best thing to do is remove the 4 bolts, and spray PB blaster on it as much as possible over a couple days, then try to tap it off. If it wont budge then heat the turbine housing up, not the center section and it should come off with some force. When its off i suggest wire wheeling the seat on the center section and on the inside lip of the turbine housing to get it all cleaned up to fit on each other nicely. New bolts there are always a good idea as well. Additionally antiseize on these bolts and on the turbine outlet is a good idea as well, the heat likes to make these bolts seize very quickly for the next time you take the turbine housing or outlet off of it.

  • #55
    Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

    cheezmonta wrote:
    AER-FBM2408
    Fitting, Flare Reducer, Female -6 AN to Male -4 AN, Steel, Each
    $5.69
    EAR-849092ERL
    Fitting, Hose End, Swivel Seal, 90 Degree, -4 AN Hose to Male 12mm x 1.5, Aluminum, Red/Blue, Each
    $31.39
    EAR-949091ERL
    Fitting, Adapter, AN Flare to Metric, -6 AN to 12mm x 1.25 Male, Aluminum, Blue, Each
    $17.69
    RUS-632000
    Hose, Proflex, Braided Stainless Steel, -4 AN, 3 ft. Length, Each
    $12.88
    SUM-220490
    Fitting, Hose End, Straight, -4 AN Hose to Female -4 AN, Aluminum, Red/Blue Anodized, Each
    $4.39
    Thats the parts list from my oil feed line.

    I just wanted to say thank you for your list of parts haha. I have been trying to figure out what I need exactly but it has been taking me a while. Thank you!

  • #56
    Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

    Well I finally got my hot side to move. So I would post what I did..Basically drench the place where they connect with PB blaster for about 5days. Heat it up for a little bit, buy a rubber mallet and go to town on it. It broke loose and it was so easy to turn..later last night I connected it up to my motor to see where the cool side needed to be clocked to and I took it off and re-clocked it..about my 3rd time so I can do it pretty quickly haha. Anyways just posting my results.

    Also I searched the forum and I couldn't find anything about removing the silencer ring. Any easy way to do it? Or just leave it on?

  • #57
    Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

    Gently with a screw driver, just kind of pry the clip out and the ring will come right out. I'd personally recommend doing it as that ring would essentially disable the anti-surge part of the compressor.

  • #58
    Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

    I have another question…How did you guys have the outlet facing? Like did you have it pointed up or do you have it pointing down kinda towards the oil pan and ran a 90 off of it? I am just asking so It doesn't kick me in the ass again when I drop it back in haha.. Thank you!

  • #59
    Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

    it all really depend on how you want to run your intercooler piping but i dont think there is any room to go down with it. I put my compressor housing in the same orentation as the stock t3 so i wouldnt have to make new intercooler piping.
    Blitz BOV, Walbro 255, HX-35 (8psi), Tokcio blues and lowering springs.

  • #60
    Re: Holset Turbo Install FAQ (and Holset Info w/ Maps, p5)

    I just bought a somewhat new and modified H1C for $300. It has the 14cm turbine housing, so it should fit a lot better than the 21 or whatever huge housing they came with.
    I think I'll make this my "streetable turbo". :lol:

    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/ … e15d_1.jpg
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/ … db1b_1.jpg
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/ … ed43_1.jpg
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/ … e7d7_1.jpg

    Now, I have a question for your Holset guys. It has a T3 exhaust, but what kind of 4-bolt flange should I look for? 2.5" or 3"? If you've got a link, that would help.
    Everyone keeps telling me, "oh, it's a standard 4-bolt flange!"
    Ummm, if it was "standard", then how come I've found about 5 different variations? :-?
    1987 300ZX Turbo - http://z31performance.com/forum/vie … php?t=3114
    2001 Tiburon Turbo 60-1 270whp/268tq

    No cupholders? Where am I gonna put my beer????