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Here is why cant use the 'muscle car' pan, sits way below the crossmember and dangerously close to the ground.if you're gonna be dumb you gotta be tough -
got my engine pulled back out last night. got the oil pan changed out to the f-body pan. one thing when putting the engine back in is that it is VERY tricky to squeeze it in between the pan and steering rack and the bellhousing and firewall. it took alot small lift,push in, lower, push in, repeat several times. But i finally got it in and set in its spot. The engine had to move back a little bit from where it was with the old pan but i still had just enough adjustability in the motor mounts with my mods on the driver side to offset of the turbo crossmember. now i can finally start getting everything else around the engine installed.
Last edited by edizzle89; 12-07-2017, 08:35 AM.if you're gonna be dumb you gotta be toughComment
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Got coolant lines figured out. The lower hose is a cut down 03 Traiblazer 5.3 hose. The upper is the original hose from the radiator to my rad cap adapter, the other half is a 2000 corvette upper hose cut down. I have to trim some of the hood structure to clear the rad cap but besides that it should work. I also made a small bracket that comes from the support behind the headlight to hold the rad cap adapter down and keep it from moving. the barb fitting on the side of the adapter is for the steam lines off the heads of the LS.Last edited by edizzle89; 12-07-2017, 08:41 AM.if you're gonna be dumb you gotta be toughComment
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To the guy asking about my alternator mount, I ended up just using spacers and a piece of square tube to mount it to the right of the head, looks a little ghetto but seems like it should work alright.
if you're gonna be dumb you gotta be tough -
I also found that the patriot rear dump block hugger headers (H8086) did not fit very well. on the passenger side the collector was against the frame rail, could probably be pounded in a bit but it was also a little too close to the fuel lines (which could be re-routed but just wasnt a fan of its fitment) and the driver side was going to need major work right in the collector to fit around the steering shaft. after a couple hours of looking at headers/factory manifolds online and eyeing/measuring my engine by I am 95% sure that a pair of C6 corvette LS3 exhaust manifolds are the solution. should clear no problem on the passenger side and should be reasonably easy to get around the steering shaft on the driver side.if you're gonna be dumb you gotta be tough -
If you're not using the hole below your nut stack, you could put a block with two holes in it instead of the nuts or a spacer.Originally posted by edizzle89 View Post -
got the c6 vette manifold on, looks like they will work, snaking the pipe around the steering shaft will be a little tricky but not too bad.
on another note there is simply not enough room for the starter between the trans tunnel and trans. I have hammered it in as much as i can but i need to gain room right were the firewall/trans tunnel/floor meet at a point and i doubt any amount of hammering will make enough room. Looks like i'll have to cut a small section out and make a plate to over the opening where the starter will fit.
if you're gonna be dumb you gotta be tough -
Is there a smaller starter you can use? I know Jegs and Summit have "Mini Starters" with adapters. Are the truck & car starters the same size?
http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performan…51068/10002/-1 -
With the adapter plate you dont use a chevy starter, it uses a z32 starter which bolts to the sofe of the bellhousing rather then the side of the blockOriginally posted by Dunkine View Postif you're gonna be dumb you gotta be toughComment
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