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My 84T has the auto climate control system and the heater core was damaged and i recently replaced it.
Aside from any vent issues (the bellows all hold vacuum) has anyone experienced a new aftermarket core not getting
to temperature as fast as the OEM core. It takes atleast 10 minutes for the air to even feel warm when it's
on any setting and the temp is set at 90.
FliR camera shows that the core is getting hot. The new core being an overall smaller size than the OEM
i had to use some strips of hi-temp foam insulation to seal it in place. I'm wondering if there is a thermal
sensor somewhere in the mounting area that i inadvertently isolated from the core by using the insulation.
If that controls a bypass vent, it may be letting more cool air past the core than through it.
I inspected that the watercock was fully open (it is normally open until it sees a vacuum) so i know it's getting
plenty of flow. All the sensors are connected.
I have a second airbox assembly that i installed and had the same results. I actually installed it first as mine
had a patched bellow that i had repaired. I re installed mine and had the same issue. I am using a climate control
head unit that came with the car, but is not the one i currently use.
Heater core getting warm (taken through stereo opening):
Eventual warmth at the side defrost vents:
Water cock allowing hot water past it
Top hose getting hot:
Water pump getting hot:
Another option is to take the OEM style core out of the spare air box and try that.
Just wondering aloud…
84 AE/Shiro #683/Shiro #820/84 Turbo -
Have you considered going with an electric core? I've looked into it some and it is feasible if not necessarily the easiest option. Although with a relay controlled by signal directly off of the CCU, it doesn't appear to be particularly difficult to figure out.
I'm looking at an electric core with electric actuators, the lack of a garage is cramping my style. But if I'm remembering my research properly, the CCU only draws signal from the 4 primary temperature sensors, and the rest of it's behavior is programmed from those four inputs and fan speed.Feedback- viewtopic.php?f=18&t=19840
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I feel have the exact same problem as what you're describing.
I have removed my dash 3 times now and replaced the heater core with the aftermarket ones (same fitmet as maxima ones).
I tested all actuators with a manual vacuum pump, all tested good. Tested the digital climate control out of its mounted position and watched it perform correctly.
Replaced all foam tape insulators with new thicker tape.
Still barely heat.
My conclusion, crappy aftermarket cores. -
just wondering, you have a similar heater module as mine right?
is there any way that your module could've blown like mine, preventing the car from heating up quickly? When mine went, it would heat up after 20 minutes, but since the module blew the fan did not spin. I'm assuming this is not your problem but I figured I'd ask anyways.
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I used old core that was cleaned out at the radiator shop. Works great
1988 300ZX Turbo, Shiro Special #760
1988 300ZX Turbo Automatic (wife's car)
1991 Hard-body 2WD
http://zccw.org/zccw/?page_id=1215 -
They're super handy, we use 3 of them (FLIR i7) around work. The resolution is only 150X150 though.
Went to install the untested spare OEM heater core i had and found that the gasket on the end tank
had bulged out and i don't want to chance it. Today i contacted Steve over at 300zxpartsforyou.com and
purchased on of the ones he has, wish i could afford a new one (216.00) Hopefully it solves this.
I'm curious as to why such a drastic efficiency difference between cores.
I may try to bench test the water flow and pressure drop between them when i get the one from Steve.
84 AE/Shiro #683/Shiro #820/84 Turbo -
Curious about this.Cha iro
enjoy building it yourself.
if it fails, fuck it.
at least you gave it a whirl. -
I'm in the middle of swapping in the used heater core i got from Steve over at 300zxpartsforyou.com (just came in the house to check email actually).
Flow testing is something i can do at work in my personal time, probably wont happen until after the first of the new year though.
I can compare the aftermarket core to my old core, i can repair it enough with parts from my other core to get it to not leak.
I should however, have real test results later tonight or tomorrow as to whether or not the air is hotter, faster. That's the real thing.
84 AE/Shiro #683/Shiro #820/84 Turbo -
I can't remember which aftermarket unit I went with when I replaced my heater core 4 or so years ago, but I didn't notice any significant changes in how long it takes to start blowing hot air. The one I swapped to had plastic tanks on it opposed to the aluminum/metal used on the OE units.
That could be a reason why. Or I could be completely off-base and incorrect.
2001 Mazda Miata LS
also a 1989 Nissan 240SX
50th AE Build Thread SOLD 2015 -
Just a thought but is your thermostat working correctly? How much will a bad thermostat affect the heater output ?Shiro #443
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I have two 86's that came with blown heater core. One got an OE core I ripped from an 84 2+2 with 65k on the clock. The other got the aftermarket core. Both seem fine though I haven't run any comparison test.Cha iro
enjoy building it yourself.
if it fails, fuck it.
at least you gave it a whirl. -
OEM: Plastic tanksOriginally posted by Kimbro Slice View Post
Aftermarket: Aluminum end tanks.
I'm not sure how much of a difference it would make either. I did install a new radiator at the same time as the new heater core.Just a thought but is your thermostat working correctly? How much will a bad thermostat affect the heater output ?
Both were damaged by coolant freezing to a slush last year and expanding.
Temps on the digital gauge don't read any lower or take longer to heat up it seems.
84 AE/Shiro #683/Shiro #820/84 Turbo -
Is that right? Jesus Christ I probably need to shut my trapper if I'm not 100% certain. I guess that wouldn't make any difference then.Originally posted by Z_Karma
2001 Mazda Miata LS
also a 1989 Nissan 240SX
50th AE Build Thread SOLD 2015 -
Aftermarket with copper tanks and OEM. Courtesy of Xenon.Cha iro
enjoy building it yourself.
if it fails, fuck it.
at least you gave it a whirl.
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