Tranny or Clutch

Re: Tranny or Clutch Assembly?"

You need to drill out the flywheel and put the two broken bolts back in. That will cause your clutch not to be all the way against the flywheel and that can cause problems. Can't see it being a tranny issue.

Re: Tranny or Clutch Assembly?"

Hmmm ok, I have another flywheel. So I guess I should just throw it on then.

P.s- Your avatar is awesome.


Edit Also was wondering if anyone would know where the source fo the whining would come from, someone told me throw out bearing a while ago.

Yes, the throw out bearing can cause whining. Pull it apart and see what it looks like in there. If you got the full clutch kit, replace it all. Rear main, pilot bushing, tob, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, new front seal in the tranny, etc.......

Thanks a lot man,cleared up a lot for me. I got the pressure plate/release bearing/pilot/clutch/and flywheel I will be doing today or tomorow.

Fifth gear popout is common and can be caused by bad bushings on the tranny mount or excessive play inside the tranny itself. If thats the case its rebuild time and rebuild kits cost about 60-80 bucks. They take about a weekend to do if you have a gear puller set and a vise.

So i did the whole everything other than the pilot bushing (dam near new), it took about 4 hours on the side of the road but it worked out. Also my pedal was put of adjustment so that helped out aswell. Its really hard to put it in gear but I lost quite a bit of tranny fluid when we put it back. Im going to do tranny flush tomorow and go from there.

maybe one of the detent balls on your trans is fucked up somehow. if it's hard going in gear and it pops out of 5th, it may be worth a look (consult FSM).

Some of Nissans older pilot bushings didn't have the silicone/oil inpregnation correct and could cause a whine. I agree that the tranny popping out of gear sounds like it's tranny related. Please tell me you fixed the stripped out bolt holes. That would couse release issues and vibration.

Hard Shifting

Yeah I did when I did the clutch job I also threw in another Flywheel and new bolts. I bled the clutch of all its dirty brake fluid until it was clear and I noticed I dont really build pressure from the clutch pedal, also the shifting is really hard now most noticeable in 1st and 2nd gears. Put in some trans fluid and it got alittle better, maybe I need a new tranny or does it seem like the clutch is still messed up?

Its cheap to rebuild those tranny's and doesn't take very long to do. If when you accel and decel while holding the shifter in 5th, you will feel excessive movement inside then its probably time for a rebuild.

Sounds hydraulic. If you still have the damper in the system, you must bleed it from the bleeder on that as well. You'll never get all the air out if you don't. Some tests; pull the boot back on your slave cyl. and see if there's fluid coming out. If so, it's bad. You can rebuild your master cyl. or buy a new one. If you're still running the stock clutch hose there are stainless ones out there that replace the damper as well. My vendor Zspeedperformance offers one. MSA as well? Another test, remove slave cyl and remove the boot around the clutch fork to the bell housing. Re-install slave cyl and measure the travel of the release bearing. It needs to move at least .400. Have you adjusted the clutch pedal?
If all of that checks out, then may be the clutch. I often have local guys bring in their cheap autoparts store clutches for us to test. They don't always work.

This clutch is from another L24 the previous buyer (my friend) had laying around, it both the clutch and pressure plate was more meatier than the previous one I had.


Also when the car is off I can shift through the gears semi-smooth (wasnt ever bread and butter to shift) but all that smoothness disappear the moment I turn the car on. On another note I'm not losing any fluid from the clutch master so I wouldn't think the slave can be faulty. I was thinking that something isn't allowing any pressure to build up.

lol, when the car is off, there is nothing spinning. Therefor it doesn't matter if the clutch/ hydraulic system even works. I could completely remove the clutch disk from the car and it'll do the same thing.

When adjusting the pedal, spin the threaded rod nearly out of the clevis. Where you can just see it poking through the other side. Does that improve it? if it's a stock clutch in good condition, that should be all the travel you need.

How was it installing the clutch? if you had to draw the tranny in with the bellhousing bolts, you may have bent the disk. OR.. the disk may have gotten bent before you installed it. I don't know the care your friend took with the kit, but it's another possibility.

Did you grease the input shaft? Too much grease can create drag between the disk splines and the shaft. Too much grease can also attract dirt (clutch dust), causing the same issue later down the road. There should be no more then a thin coating.

Last resort, remove the kit from the car. Bolt the kit with the disk inside togther with the flywheel and actuate the fingers of the clutch in a press. You should be able to spin the disk freely at .400 of bearing travel.

If you get frusterated, send everything to me and I'll take a look at it. If you can eliminate the clutch assembly from the equasion, then you can start to narrow down the issue.

+1
tranny could be junk. Would explain notchy shifting and gear popping out. I used to have an RX7 that I kept going through tranny's. I got a junkyard tranny for cheap and it was notchy. Used lucas 80/90 gear oil and made evrything butter.