Strut replacement

One more question…. I have a set of used tokico springs…. Would y’all recommend using those over the stock or stick with stock springs? I’m a little leery of excessive camber especially since I won’t be able to rotate the tires.

Apparently I had the same issue in 2015 but my Tokico struts came with the shortened gland nut.

The original gland nut was made to seal in the fluid, not retain a cartridge.

KYB KIT108a is what you need, but they have been NLA for years.

KYB_KIT108A.jpg


Zspiritimports sells an updated version.

You could also try machining your gland nuts down to the correct height, if you have that option.

I’m using the gland nut that came with the inserts. There’s no way the original would begin to thread without machining the inside. It’s catching 3 threads.. just not sure if that’s enough.

I did find this video:



looks like what I have is how it’s designed

ahh, gotcha. what a pain in the ass.

Got feedback from KYB tech support. The nut is right at 1/2 way on hand tight and another 1/2 turn with the wrench. I cleaned out the tube with brake cleaner and swabbed it with the old strut with a towel taped to the end, so.. it’s clean and good.

Here’s what they stated:

“Since this is a cartridge, you always want to make sure the strut housing is clean. Make sure there is no debris, oil, or rust inside of the housing. This could be a reason as to why the nut isn’t screwing all the way down.

Even if you cannot get the nut all the way on, as long as it is about half way on you should be good.”

I think i'd find a way to get it to seat fully, if that involved machining a few mm off the bottom cup of the strut.
(Tighten down the nut as much as you can, measure the stick-out, and remove that amount from the cup.)
but then, i have access to a mill to do that too.

My arguement is that when the nut is bottomed out, you have the full circumferance of the strut tube + full thread engagement, keeping it from backing out,

With the underside of the nut only contacting the strut cartridge collar, it's only that patch + the 50% thread engagement keeping it from backing out.

I'm not busting your chops, just seems sus that KYB support is; is it clean? ok, should be good.

atleast use blue loctite

Amazing how so many parts are going the way of the doo doo bird. I had a mechanic do mine KYB's a LONG time ago and I remember when they opened up the strut the catridge had started to leak and it burt on them soaking the mechanic in fluid. I know there were tricks they used to get KYB's in there as think the Tokiko's were the stock OEM manu

Yeah…. I wish it had at least all the threads engaging. I agree it’s a bit suspect. However, I don’t have a mill and do have a deadline. Guess if it breaks I’ll have a fun drive. At least I have spare tubes.

I think if 3/8” was shaved off the bottom it’d fit perfect