Upgrade to PRW-2 Ign. Control Module (Power Transistor Unit)

I went and got the ignitor tested at Autozone and they said it was fine. As far as I can tell testing doesn't always work but I did it anyways. This is exactly how others wired theirs.



The original wiring harness that came with the PRW-2a looks like this.



I didn't notice until a few minutes ago, I did purchase the PRW-2a. Does that make a difference? Is there a reason why I shouldn't match the original wiring harness?

The pinout on the ptu that we have and the pwr-1/2/2a is different, but the unit functions the same way, so to use a pwr-2a you need to repin the connector or cut and splice, or make an adapter harness that crosses over

What do you mean by the pinout? Do you mean each of these little metal clips? They look identical.



I switched out the actual plastic male connector modules if that helps.

I got the car started multiple times now so I know the ignitor works. More often than not though when I turn the key I hear the starter going, but the engine doesn't turn over. A few times the engine will turn over and then just die. Other times I can feel the engine just barely turn over once or twice as it attempts to start but then nothing. I may need to start a new thread but I'm not sure. Like I said earlier I've had a lot of problems here in the past couple months. My oil pressure has been messed up "like 5-25 pps" and so I recently took it in and got the vacum to the oil pump replaced. My oil pressure is still showing 30 on my gauge…which is probably lik 10-15 on an accurate guage. Anyways, they also told me that either my ignitor was bad, my CAS was bad, or both were. So that's what I'm tryihng to figure out. I just took the car out for a short drive and I was going 30 mph and the car just died and i started cruising. I pushed the clutch in and it started right back up. I can't figure out what's going on. I'm ready to trash this thing.

I'll also add that when my car idles it seems to be pretty rough. When I just barely apply some gas to rev up the rpms a bit the rpms dip before it increases to the point where it nearly dies. It will sometimes die while idling too.

Pull the codes off your ecu

there is no such thing as a vacuum for an oil pump. who is working on your car for you?

Hahah vacuum reference for the oil pump :P~~~~~~~~~~

Yeah, I'll double check on monday to see exactly what the mechanic said they did to it. I'm so frustrated right now. I will say that my knowledge of car mechanics on a scale of 1-10 would be somewhere right around 0. I'd love to learn though. So any thing that you guys can do to help is much appreciated.

http://xenonz31.com/ECUcodes.html

A small flathead screw driver? :P

Oh, lol. That's even better. I will check that out tomorrow for sure.

Codes

11-Faulty Crank Angle sensor/circuit
12-Air Flow Meter/Circuit
13-CHTS Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor
21-Ignition Signal
23-Idle Switch circuit
31-ECU Control Unit

Suprise, suprise. So that's quite a few codes and the ones tripped pretty much make sense. 31 though, does that really mean I need a new ECU? This seems like a big task with all the codes, where do I start?

I started a thread so I don't completely hijack this thread any further. http://z31performance.com/showthread…320#post339320 Please follow me over to this thread and continue your awesome help.

Anyone got a PRW2 they would give/sell to me? There's none in any of the cars in the junkyards near me.
Would really like to get the quest bracket too but I'm not picky. Let me know.
Ship to 01960.

Tanks mang!

I will be going to the junkyard probably on Tuesday. There are almost always a dozen cars with the PRW-2. I can see if I can get one, and if anyone else would like one, let me know!

sweet!

Found some in the JY, will get them today… and I have one with a Quest bracket waiting for you if you want it! I will have extras as well, if anyone wants one!