Megasquirt info

135, 246, works flawless.

You Want the wire that goes to the 6th tooth side of the wheel…There are 4 wires. power, ground, 360 slot, 6 slot.

I will be wiring wiring in the PRW, how did you wire yours? As for Inverted ect, I would assume you use the "same" as factory would use or what you would have previsoulsy used because you don't change the OEM computer settings when swapping ignitors.

If you want I could probably send you my map if you want or interested in it for shits and giggles.

Thanks. The "guess and check" recommended in the manuals: Test by turning the key to on position without cranking it and if the coil or ignitor gets warm, you done ffff'd up and need to go back and fix it before you melt things. I'd rather not put any strain on this stuff. I have two ignitors, 3 coils but only 1 megasquirt. Lol.

with the other driver choice i had (bosch bip) you'd set it to inverted because the ms isn't pinned directly off the - side of the coil. I'

Consider that the z31 was 1-2-3 & 4-5-6 until the recall, then it became 1-3-5 & 2-4-6 fire order… both work, the former should be more responsive to quickly increasing airflow

I'll try both if the later doesn't work out. I'm without a doubt going to use spark output A/d14 on inverted "going high". Best way to test is turn the key to "on" but not "run" and if it starts getting hot, it's wrong. lol.

Power transistor wires on mine (using i believe a dohc s13 240sx plug on vg30e 3 pin transistor) are as follows : green with black stripe (?), Black (obvious ground is obvious, to chassis?) and white.

I think white goes to + coil terminal and green w/black stripe goes to pin 36. - coil terminal goes to black wire on power transistor and then to chassis ground? That should be the last of my ecu essentials. Still learning that "E" part of ms1e on the board. Wiring to me is HARD. Lol. I can mess with software and drive all day. =D



Just to save a headache:

Anyone have a pinout diagram of the prw 2 ptu?

I went through the "upgrade how to" thread. Can't find the damn thing in the fsm. Actually can't find ignition at all in my 240sx or m30 fsm to verify wire color. Which pins go where? I'd rather just go by pinout. I know z31's have two wires switched up. Been running around in circles for hours for answers. Lol.

Pinout of the prw2 to megasquirt if you're looking at the front of the unit with the lettering:

1. to coil -
2. Ground
3. Pin 36 (or whatever pin your spark output A is on)

That's how it's designed to function. Black89Turbo and Carl H were kind enough to help out since the stock ignitors are talked about but you really dont need to use them unless you have a fuel-only computer you're converting to run spark and use the newer style oe transistors or bypassing the equipped transistor with the newer ms units that have build in spark control as a standard feature.

Pin 36 is not specific to my board. I said screw all that mess and my x11/x12/x13/x14 are joined to pin 2 and 3 of the bosch coil driver. It's so tiny. Like 1/20th the size of a prw2. Just mounted it to my case lid. For pull up on tach signal i have a trace that runs from the non banded side of d5 all the way to an empty spot near r29. I'm going from that to the banded side of d9 for my 12v pullup. I'll find out if this is correct or not then i can proceed with setup/final install. Yay! Everything is vague and jumbled i find so it's been a huge pita but getting help. Gotta love megasquirt tech support!

Back again. Not sure if anyone even lurks or hangs out in this section. The jim stim is worth it's weight in gold. MS is officially "ready to run" as stand alone with all input/output mods done aside from launch control. I have faith in the stock six slot trigger wheel from what you guys have been able to do with them. That stays. I feel my tach/rpm signal wires are shielded well but if i get noise i will install the wheel and see what difference it'll make. I do have D5 as is. I have NOT jumpered it. megamanual says it's there for signal stability so i left it be. Noticed no problems running it like this on the stim. So far so good.

I never had mis-triggers/sync loss with the stock 6 slot wheel. I swapped to a 12-1 (x2) wheel that DIYAutoTune sold for the 280Z/ZX guys, but It's been giving me problems ever since. Like sync loss at specific rpms (2100, 2500 mostly). I've had to enable filtering, and for a while starting was a huuuge pain due to massive sync loss, but that's mostly gone. I'm slowly upping the filter settings bit by bit in the hopes the sync loss goes away.

I might suggest looking into shielding, but it's also possible your alt is making dirty power

I lurk, I wish I had a Stim. Anyhow, I never really had a issue with sinc loss ect AFTER I figured everything out. Once I figured out how everything correlates it was solid. Right now as I sit it would be running but......someone decided not to put ass. lube on the New Isky cam and I decided to crank the car over....the rest is history haha. New heads on, Cams on its way to isky and the new one will be turned around almost same day. We should be ready to fire up shortly after. I will update the build thread.

Still have to figure out how to hook up the Factory tach to the MS, Figure out launch control, antilag ect..

I need a link to your build thread and you should totally get a stim kit. Just be sure to get extra jumpers. They only include 3 but you might want extra for group system tests.
Blozup, that's consistent with some of the things i've encountered in my research. Thanks.

I wish I would have purchased a stim by now. Being this far along, I doubt I will. http://z31performance.com/showthread…d-life-crisis!

I have the basic tuner studio for now. Just literally finished burning my settings (screwed up and had everything at 140-150kpa when my map sensor is good to 250kpa so this is the 3rd redo. I had it right my first go but the tune wouldn't burn, was tired and forgot to change the rpm and kpa values...... That's ok though considering i'm working up to that "first start" checklist and idle.

Got confused when i go to lambda/ego settings. Same with barometric correction so i will leave those alone for now. Accel enrichment is disabled. Target AFR to alter the VE is disabled. Not sure what to use for flood clear values or how to set up my rev limiter. Right now it's 6 sparks. Hard, soft and boost cut is 3 out of 6. Not sure if that's right. I dunno how to post my tables here. Car cranks over fine without the ms. Just making sure all my relays/power strips/buss boxes are in order before i hook er up. Rain wont cut me a break today guys.

my dwell is 6.0m/s crank and 2.0m/s run with a .5 m/s minimum discharge period. I've been reading back through this thread and several of the tuner studio settings arn't discussed. I have the free version. I take it i'd have to upgrade for sensor calibration? I have tps sensor calibration and that's it. I'm running a nissan/stock coolant temp sensor, not GM.

So i'm good but unsure if i'm getting spark. I'm sitting in the car right now trying to crank it. Everything reads fine. Gm sensors, tps is calibrated.

She acted like she wanted to start and almost did. What was the deal with using the pathfinder dizzy. 99 percent sure that's what i've got. Downpipe straight reeks of gas. My cranking rpm was set to 200 (never got above 185 rpm off the starter), i tried 300 Nada. Also tried less fuel at the cranking temp values my sensor is giving me now (bout 94* coolant temp and the car has just been sitting. It's HOT today. I'm pouring sweat as i type this.

Um coil doesn't get warm or anything. My 12v to coil if you're looking at the thing from the TOP is on the right. Ground is on the left. Chances i have this backwards are? I'll try again tomorrow. Not much luck today. At least ms is picking everything up like it's supposed to. =D Almost there guys!


What i may need to look at is someone elses cranking/priming/dwell screenshots. You can pm them if you prefer. I'd appreciate it either way. Worst case " DOH! "scenario after adjusting a few things while eating lunch is i have the dizzy 180 out.... Meaning i'm at tdc on the exhaust stroke, not compression. That'd give me some misfires and intake backfires though, wouldn't it? I have none of that going on. I did take plug wire one off and put a spare plug on it and put it to the chassis while someone cranked. No spark at all but for a split second she acted like she wanted to turn over. I audibly heard ignition exhaust pulses in rapid succession.

Ran out of time/daylight/energy for the day but decided "HEY, lets take this dizzy apart and check the disk inside" I am getting verified cas signal from it on the tuner studio dashboard and led. Did see my rotor was LOOSE! The screw wasn't tightened down all the way so i lined up the cam gears with the marks and stuffed a rag in the hole. Here's where i stopped. Is this square hole gonna cause me an issue? 5 slits, one square hole..... Maybe it's picking up the wrong edge? Maybe i'm set wrong for it? Idk.






I'm using a maxi cap, i'm 90 percent sure this is a pathfinder dizzy. You can see the sharpie mark for no. 1 point under the cap. I'm aware maxi points are off in relation to plug wire location and accounted for that before i initially stabbed it.