Rethinking springs?


  • #16
    :O Those coils are nice and thick! So you're going to fab something up to keep them from falling out? Do you think that will be an issue?
    " I spend another hour trying to rip the bolt out of the subframe, pausing every five minutes to scream and contemplate how I get myself into these situations. Two cars over, a guy urinates. I watch the steam waft off of the fresh puddle in the gravel. It merges with the blowing snow and is cut by the aerodynamic wedge of a nearby Fiero. Beautiful. Another pry and the carrier finally falls to earth. I walk out of there $80 lighter, which makes me more mad." - Brian Kolar

  • #17
    that's why I drilled a hole in one of the upper flanges at the upper spring seat, and have a steel cable looped to prevent spring loss!
    Damn dirty angels....these cars!

    Current Daily Driver - 86 Turbo.
    Under the cover - THE BANANA… that needs to be re-energized.
    sigpic

  • #18
    To add an update the Moog CC253 springs are variable still getting used them paired with constant rate SS springs on the front.

    Thinking my rack's going bad right now after I did the install work, so I've got bigger problems to deal with than springs at the moment.
    Life's short
    Go fast
    Have a blast
    Leave a good looking corpse

  • #19
    Just put the car back on the ground. Didn't drive it so the springs still need to settle. Here is what the ride height looks like:





    A little tall still, but they will probably settle down a little more when it gets driven (some day). Talked to Koni and they said their Yellow Sport for the z31 has sufficient damping for 350 lb/in.
    Justin
    1986 NA 2-seater
    SCCA Solo E-Street Prepared #31
    Race Videos
    Build Thread

  • #20
    Looks good. Be sure to post some pics of the ride height omve they've settled.

    On another note: Are those monoblock Wats? Looks like the circle of cranes logo in one photo.

    Originally posted by Axel kain View Post
    ^ I've got the Ford racing "C" Front springs under the back of my car, had to trim down maybe 1.25 coils I think. the rears were a bit softer than I liked, so tried the fronts. just right!
    I've been researching ST's Mustang springs. Rears springs should be similar to Z31 STs in ride height, but with somewhere around 275-300# rate. I emailed ST inquiring about freelength, rates, and average Mustang ride height, but the response was rather lacking other than availability and spring type. So not much to go by there.
    '86 300ZXT GLL
    '78 Datsun 280Z BP
    '11 Saab 9-3 Aero XWD

  • #21
    Yes. I like that height!
    " I spend another hour trying to rip the bolt out of the subframe, pausing every five minutes to scream and contemplate how I get myself into these situations. Two cars over, a guy urinates. I watch the steam waft off of the fresh puddle in the gravel. It merges with the blowing snow and is cut by the aerodynamic wedge of a nearby Fiero. Beautiful. Another pry and the carrier finally falls to earth. I walk out of there $80 lighter, which makes me more mad." - Brian Kolar

  • #22
    So, if you're picking up the inside rear wheel, try removing the rear sway bar. It happened to me too. It's all the rage out west here to ditch rear sways so you can put power down out of corners. The clock doesn't lie. If you're faster without a rear bar then it has to go. Also, maybe fundamentally you need a lot more front spring/bar?

  • #23
    Originally posted by Pace View Post
    Looks good. Be sure to post some pics of the ride height omve they've settled.

    On another note: Are those monoblock Wats? Looks like the circle of cranes logo in one photo.

    I've been researching ST's Mustang springs. Rears springs should be similar to Z31 STs in ride height, but with somewhere around 275-300# rate. I emailed ST inquiring about freelength, rates, and average Mustang ride height, but the response was
    rather lacking other than availability and spring type. So not much to go by there.
    Will do, and yup they are Watanabe F8's.

    Originally posted by Darthpaul View Post
    So, if you're picking up the inside rear wheel, try removing the rear sway bar. It happened to me too. It's all the rage out west here to ditch rear sways so you can put power down out of corners. The clock doesn't lie. If you're faster without a rear bar then it has to go. Also, maybe fundamentally you need a lot more front spring/bar?
    Removing the rear sway didn't fix the lift. On top of that, without the rear swaybar, the car does not rotate on corner entry as well and the point of traction loss under throttle is very vague.

    It's a bandaid fix and will work depending how much (little) grip you are making, but does not come without compromise. Fundamentally more front spring and bar is needed, but too much and you will get push on corner entry as well as mid-corner push. I was running 9kg/mm spring up front with a 25mm bar. I wouldn't go above 10 kg/mm up front.

    My idea of a better solution: back to OEM-amounts of droop travel and keep the rear bar.
    Justin
    1986 NA 2-seater
    SCCA Solo E-Street Prepared #31
    Race Videos
    Build Thread

  • #24
    Hey guys,
    Forgot that I never updated this thread. Just wanted to show my DIY spring retainers. They are 3" (I think) ABS couplings with a bracket that lets it sit in the OEM spring perch. I welded a nut to the bottom of the upper spring perch so I can attach it with a long bolt.




    I also put a bolt/nut through one of the holes at the bottom of the spring perch. The spring stays fully captive now even at full droop on oem-length shocks.





    Car sits like this on the 5.5x11 350 lb/in springs. For reference, the tire size is 225/50/16 and the fronts are on Eibachs.



    Justin
    1986 NA 2-seater
    SCCA Solo E-Street Prepared #31
    Race Videos
    Build Thread