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Done here with pictures. I know he has the templates of the fabrication used to duplicate.Ford Falcon wrote: Well, it's been 6 months since we saw any activity on this thread. So this weekend I'm going to get a couple of quotes to get the parts fabricated and the welding work started on my swap. I've got an S13 rear sub-frame, the fuel tank is out, and I'm making sure the areas to be worked on are free of any dirt, and such. I'll be sure to get some photos up here when its done. Finally moving forward on this thing.
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=23510&start=0
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=2222786na - BlueZ
Shiro #366 - Kouki Monster
85t - Mr Tickles -
It can be done without all welding on the chassis.
We used a S14 subframe. The front subframe mounts are solid and have 4 through bolt holes drilled in them. An extension peice is then bolted to the S14 solid mount. The extension peice is shaped in a C on the subframe side and the solid bushing is cradled between the C. The 4 through bolts then make it one solid peice.
The tapered spike of the original Z31 subframe mount is used (the one welded in your car) and locates the S14 subframe in the car. Then the S14 tapered spike is purchased from the dealer and a plate is fabricated. The spikes are welded to the plate and go through the S14 subframe in the original location. The plate is then drilled to use the original Z31 diff mount.
In this way the entire subframe is a bolt in affair requiring no modification to the chassis of the car (should there ever be a reason to go back to Z31 suspension). It also tucks the subframe into the chassis as far as possible, and all loading from the subframe is put into the chassis at its original intended points.
Some notching to the frame and rear wheel wells is required to use the S13/S14 subframe. (See swap thread for details)The bullshit stops, when the GREEN light drops.
Only babies cry about the bottle. -
I don't like the rear plate idea without welding it to the car. Seems like the plate would have to be really thick to combat the vertical stress put on the section between the z31 diff mount and the s13/s14 mounting holes. I think modifying the rear crossbar to have a bolt or the s13/s14 spike sticking down would be better, as you can tuck the subframe up even further while still not interfering with the mounting of a stock z31 subframe in the future.1985 NA2T(now RB) * 1988 SS x2 * 1984 AE x3 * 2006 350Z
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welding the rear plate to the beam should be a must, more testing next weekend then i'll get them made for people who want a diy kit! i need adam(adamvann3) to come test my z so he can make a legitimate statement about the whole swap.Sbsperformance-cylinder head service and porting specialist. Shoot me a pm for porting specials and now offering a low low price for intake manifold porting! Now offering ceramic and thermal dispersant coating! -
my car has a plate welded to the top on the inside and on the bottom in the rear, with a long bolt that runs all the way through. Seems to have worked well and done what it was supposed to do.1uz Swapped, lowered, flaked out '86 z31
'72 Datsun 510 4dr, ka24de-T, slammed resto mod
'84 z31 turbo, coils, wheels a.k.a the gfs weekend car
'86 na2t parts for now a.k.a eventually will get running with a/c daily
'83 280zx project backburner a.k.a ls turbo drag car one day
Custom vg30et tube chassis drift exocet project -
long bolt seems to be the best way imo. Also fortunately the easiest.1985 NA2T(now RB) * 1988 SS x2 * 1984 AE x3 * 2006 350Z
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Nice. Thanks for the links too. So what type of welds are you all doing? (mig, tig, arc?) What's the best for this project? Any preferential metals you're using, or mild steel is good enough? I understand the metal in the cross member where the original differential mounts to it is rather thin, so it would probably need to be reinforced, or maybe just boxed (like some others have done)?My Project '88 Z31 To Do List:
S13 rear subframe,
'91 Q45 R200 diff,
'91 Infiniti VH45DE,
Z33 6-speed transmission
Custom wire harness
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I used the mig for most of it! Used big thick washers on top and bottom of rear mount! Works great so far.
The car has a totally different feel, and is much more predictable.
The issue I have is I got D2 Z32 rear coilovers and the spring rate is way too stiff, and can't get a reply from the Distributor if they sell a lower rate of spring for the z32… it is 9kg or 10kg right now.
Anyone know if the s13 springs will fit z32 shocks?88na2T-s13,q45 swap 12.6@110mph
87T 2+2 auto,stock -
Just measure what length you want and what rate and call Stance. They will have whatever you need. Most all coilover springs are 2.5" I.D.sigpic -
So what do you all think of this idea…
Rather than having to compensate for the 'C' curve to the existing cross-member, just cut out the bottom, back and front sides to the cross member, then weld in replacement pieces where the bottom mounting piece is flat and sits at the same height (or higher) as the original. That way I could make the S13 sub-frame sit a little higher also.
Would doing something like that weaken that area?My Project '88 Z31 To Do List:
S13 rear subframe,
'91 Q45 R200 diff,
'91 Infiniti VH45DE,
Z33 6-speed transmission
Custom wire harness
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I see it being as simple as : someone with the means making - a bolt in sleeve to mount to the factory spike welded to two plates steel one on the top and one on the bottom to reach back to the subframe - with a holes in them - to (nut and) bolt to the SF. then a drilled plate to bolt to the cross beam above the diff, and thus bolt the subframe to that.
I'd strongly consider making these - IF I had the means to cut and weld up the templates ( still working on getting a welder.)
a bolt in affair being possible would simplify, and ease the potential of these swaps. only thing is that there would need to be separate types for S13/14 etc.Damn dirty angels....these cars!
Current Daily Driver - 86 Turbo.
Under the cover - THE BANANA… that needs to be re-energized.
sigpic -
Do itShiro #443
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I think with butters all ready going through What he went through with the s14 rear strut tube length, the z32 being such a wide track and s15 being so rare most people would lean towards s13 for sure. -
as he said, S14 is a viable option, just run S13 dampers/coilovers. the damper length of the S14's (the higher mount point) is the only difference that gets people confused. whereas the S13 dampers mated to the S13/14(/15) subframe assy, with some kind of LSD dumped in there with some Z32 brakes tossed in for good measure ==== FTMF-WIN.Damn dirty angels....these cars!
Current Daily Driver - 86 Turbo.
Under the cover - THE BANANA… that needs to be re-energized.
sigpic -
Go for it Axel!
Speaking of S13s, I'm looking for the length of the rear S13 strut in it's normal compressed position (car on ground with wheel on hub), and it's extended position (car raised and wheel off hub). Does anyone have this information?
I need to determine where I'm going to position the upper mounting point of the strut, after I've got the S13 sub-frame in place.
Thanks viewers.My Project '88 Z31 To Do List:
S13 rear subframe,
'91 Q45 R200 diff,
'91 Infiniti VH45DE,
Z33 6-speed transmission
Custom wire harness
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