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^Huh? :Oo
And yeah, you can just use S13 coils in the rear with S14 lower mounts to use the S14 subframe. The only reason I did it the way I did is because I had already bought the coilovers from Tanabe. Stance was created the following week. :banghead Even if you make a kit to use the S13 subframe, they make billet adapters to swap S14 subframes into S13's, and you can use those.sigpic -
Unless you are using the Z32 aluminum knuckles you can mount the 240's in the same location as the stock Z31shocks…I used the Z32 knuckles so I made angle pieces to give the shocks a better angle and not bind.Ford Falcon wrote: Go for it Axel!
Speaking of S13s, I'm looking for the length of the rear S13 strut in it's normal compressed position (car on ground with wheel on hub), and it's extended position (car raised and wheel off hub). Does anyone have this information?
I need to determine where I'm going to position the upper mounting point of the strut, after I've got the S13 sub-frame in place.
Thanks viewers.
When I just used the stock S13's they didn't bind…I believe just the stock S13 coilover is right around 24 1/2" out of the car lying on the ground.88na2T-s13,q45 swap 12.6@110mph
87T 2+2 auto,stock -
well the guys that want to toss a S14 frame into a S13 using the adapters have it easy, as the frames nearly line up, just a few inches diff. so the offset blocks work out, we need something to bolt to the frame's factory ( or other installed) bushing sleve (the inner sleve), and have brackets go to a sleeve to be bolted to the Z31 spike.
the center mounts are going to be the actual challenge. this is partially me tossing an idea out to someone who could do it, but once I have my shop setup I'll see about pioneering....Damn dirty angels....these cars!
Current Daily Driver - 86 Turbo.
Under the cover - THE BANANA… that needs to be re-energized.
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I'm not too sure, but I think Butter may know a little bit about what it takes to do the swap.Axel kain wrote: well the guys that want to toss a S14 frame into a S13 using the adapters have it easy, as the frames nearly line up, just a few inches diff. so the offset blocks work out, we need something to bolt to the frame's factory ( or other installed) bushing sleve (the inner sleve), and have brackets go to a sleeve to be bolted to the Z31 spike.
the center mounts are going to be the actual challenge. this is partially me tossing an idea out to someone who could do it, but once I have my shop setup I'll see about pioneering....1985 NA2T(now RB) * 1988 SS x2 * 1984 AE x3 * 2006 350Z
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that's pretty much how my setup is, guna change up a few things first then i'll be releasing them!Sbsperformance-cylinder head service and porting specialist. Shoot me a pm for porting specials and now offering a low low price for intake manifold porting! Now offering ceramic and thermal dispersant coating! -
^ if thats the case.... CARRY ON!
if you need a S14 test fit, I can drop my Z's rear and slide my S14 rear underneath if need be.Damn dirty angels....these cars!
Current Daily Driver - 86 Turbo.
Under the cover - THE BANANA… that needs to be re-energized.
sigpic -
A bolt in S14 subframe into a Z31?? No way its been done before. :nanan?re
ZFast88Z wrote: It can be done without all welding on the chassis.
We used a S14 subframe. The front subframe mounts are solid and have 4 through bolt holes drilled in them. An extension peice is then bolted to the S14 solid mount. The extension peice is shaped in a C on the subframe side and the solid bushing is cradled between the C. The 4 through bolts then make it one solid peice.
The tapered spike of the original Z31 subframe mount is used (the one welded in your car) and locates the S14 subframe in the car. Then the S14 tapered spike is purchased from the dealer and a plate is fabricated. The spikes are welded to the plate and go through the S14 subframe in the original location. The plate is then drilled to use the original Z31 diff mount.
In this way the entire subframe is a bolt in affair requiring no modification to the chassis of the car (should there ever be a reason to go back to Z31 suspension). It also tucks the subframe into the chassis as far as possible, and all loading from the subframe is put into the chassis at its original intended points.
Some notching to the frame and rear wheel wells is required to use the S13/S14 subframe. (See swap thread for details)The bullshit stops, when the GREEN light drops.
Only babies cry about the bottle. -
I'll just put this here again.
Butter wrote: So yeah…how come nobody is doing this?
I was going to fab up a prototype for a kit for Touge Factory to make the S13 rear subframe a total bolt in affair. Then I realized that nobody would buy it and crushed the car it was going to go on. Here are the super secret blueprints.
TF has an adapter block to adapt S14 subframe to an S13. It's basically a solid chunk of aluminum that replaces the forward rubber bushing.
I was going to take a blank one and drill and tap it so you could install it in the subframe and bolt an extension bracket to it. The rear would just be a box and stud assembly to envelop the frame member of the car (I posted a pic of this earlier). It would be secured in place with through bolts and the stock diff mount studs.
Somebody make them and make billion$$$.sigpic -
Thats exactly what we did. However I used through bolts with nuts instead of bolts threaded into the aluminum subframe mount. Having the threads in the aluminum hold up to the stresses in the mount didnt give me a warm fuzzy feeling.The bullshit stops, when the GREEN light drops.
Only babies cry about the bottle. -
Questions:
Other than cutting a bit of the body in that region, and mounting the front and rear using a set of brackets/mounts… is there anything else that needs to be addressed.
I just want to see if anyone has a shopping list of things to buy to get prepared so it could be a weekend affair (long weekend, maybe).
1) s14/s13 subframe.
2) adjustable links (makes dialing in suspension easier, in the long run).
3) front bracket/mount adapters
4) rear bracket/mount plate
5) extended driveshaft (anyone have a rough estimation of the length?)
6)… brake lines are ok?
7)… brake calipers not ok?
8]… ebrake cables work?
9)… any other fabricating to use the s14 rear coilovers?
I have an S14 subframe with a 5 lug setup that's only missing the differential and the strut/shocks… I was just curious to know if there's anything else that I should be looking out for or something that wasn't mentioned. -
Get a Q45 diff cover from the junkyard when you install that diff. It bolts on.
I would wait until everything is in the car to measure for your Driveshaft. When I change my trans I'll post up dimensions and part #'s. Everyone does the brakes differently. The S14 brakes are not that great on an S14, so it's a good time to upgrade to Z32 rear.sigpic -
z32 rears or q45 rears, which is what I have!Butter wrote: Get a Q45 diff cover from the junkyard when you install that diff. It bolts on.
I would wait until everything is in the car to measure for your Driveshaft. When I change my trans I'll post up dimensions and part #'s. Everyone does the brakes differently. The S14 brakes are not that great on an S14, so it's a good time to upgrade to Z32 rear.1uz Swapped, lowered, flaked out '86 z31
'72 Datsun 510 4dr, ka24de-T, slammed resto mod
'84 z31 turbo, coils, wheels a.k.a the gfs weekend car
'86 na2t parts for now a.k.a eventually will get running with a/c daily
'83 280zx project backburner a.k.a ls turbo drag car one day
Custom vg30et tube chassis drift exocet project -
So just a quick Q,
apart from all the available measurements around for all the sub frames, does anyone happen to have the dimensions for the plates that Kevin87 made on 300zx club? (i tried getting in contact with him directly with no luck....Last Activity: 11-02-2007 12:28 PM) This is the way i would like to do it.
[attachment=0:12212tab]plates.jpg[/attachment:12212tab]
anyhow, i have an s15 subframe at home, and both FSM's with all the measurements, i can easily work out the rear section of the sub frame an pin locations due to the corresponding points on both cars with listed measurements. However the front mounts are a mystery to me.
Is anyone able to help me by providing the dimensions for all the plates (as the rear peg location will obviously affect the front) and what subframe they used? as i will need to modify some distances if the subframe used was not S15.
Any and all help would be greatly appreciated (as this is my daily and its already off the road)
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well after doing a lot of digging
i can get a complete rear end less diff for the
S-13 $ 200
S-14 $ 700
is the S-14 worth the extra cost for the slightly better geometry?1984 300ZX - 1988 VG30T Engine, Trans, Diff, ECU
1987 300ZX TURBO - ( Parts Car ), 1988 300ZX TURBO - ( Parts Car )
1972 240Z -- Full restore - L28ET L6 Engine from 280zx, T-5 transmission, Rear diff from the 87
1998 Mazda B-2500, And a lot of bikes
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