no spark

You write much words, yet skip an obvious, please focus on fuel pump circuit for great achievement

Fuel pump will not prime and will not pump fuel unless ignition is present though? I MAY be wrong about that. Fuel pump works when bypassing relay. Wiring to pump looks good. Fuse is good. Relay does not click when switching ignition switch or attempting to start. However, the green EFI relay also does not click or allow ecu to power up. Swapped relay with a BLUE one for test purposes since they are the same relay, and no change. Only way I can get power to ECU now is to jump the BROWN and BLACK/WHITE pins in the connector. Seems by the diagram the red wire from that relay to ECU may be suspect?

Or, is ignition dependent on fuel supply? Wiring to fuel pump looks good. Have swapped multiple BLUE relays for circuit to no avail. Fuse IS good. This also makes me think it has


Again, NEW dizzy, NEW coil, wires, plugs, 3 different PTU's, Fuel Pump. No fuel without bypassing connector, and no spark without jumping wires at relay connector.

Not doubting any input, just making sure I am understanding.

So is the ECU green lights on? Could also be a bad ignition switch. Check efi fusable link?

Ecu does not power up with efi relay in. I have to jump the brown and black wire to get power to the edu. From there I can attempt to start the car but I get no fuel pump prime or spark. Dizzy does not fire injectors when pulled and spun by hand.

I am beginning to think it may be related to the ignition switch a little more. As I stated in the first post, is it likely all other electronics would come on and function but only actual starting function be unavailable? I noticed after fumbling around with some things today that when holding the coil wire end and turning the key off and on, I get a SMALL shock come through. Maybe the contacts on the switch are toast? And maybe this is why it doesnt prime the pump when cycling the key or let the injectors fire even when spinning dizzy manually? What gets me is that if the ecu comes on with the wires jumped, from there I would think that should allow power to the other electronics? Maybe the dizzy I have has a bad cas. I have tried a Pathy dizzy that was working at one point as well as a reman warranty replacement.

I was able to get the fuel pump to turn ON with key on. It doesnt prime though, just runs. Have new relay coming. Also have another dizzy on the way since I cannot get injector cycling when spinning by hand with key on regardless of relay in socket or wires crossed.

Fuel system seems to be working. Pump is turning on. Got ANOTHER dizzy. Still no fire. Swapped efi harness to one the previous car ran with. Still no fire. Guess it might possibly be the harness with the relay box is wired to?

Is your ignition control module getting power?

Last check yes. Will check again.

Icm does not have continuity on pin 2 which is the green wire black trace. I also have no power to 2 pin coil connector…

Pin 3 and pin 5 in 20 pin ecu connector does not show continuity to ground either.

Time to prw2 (:

PWR2 has been swapped in to test as well. It was also a known working unit. Went back to checking continuity I did actually find that pin 5 has continuity to ground. Pin 3 has none. Pin 3 is also related to ignition circuit. However I am unsure of which harness that wire traces through since it is on the driver side and separate from the EFI harness. These connectors are a part of he harness that runs through the driver fender frame and into the cabin. I guess I will be pulling the harnesses to see where a possible break in a wire is. I also think this may be part of why I am not getting power to the coil.

On another note, I feel I need to pull the engine bay harness to see why I have to jump the brown and black wires at the green efi relay to get power to the ecu. I think the red wire that traces from that relay is broken somewhere which is why the relay is not properly functioning.

Other things I have noticed include that the fuel pump comes on but will not turn off without disconnecting. Interior lights stay on as long as any power is supplied. Dont think the interior lights are exactly related but I do think that maybe its a sign of harness issues.

What did you do to the car? Was everything working before?

This particular car was purchased through a friend who began a part out on the car. All harnesses that came with the car were the original harnesses. The car was purchased with the intent to build an engine for is since it did not come with that or a trans. Now that the engine is installed along with the trans, it is time to start the car. It turns over just fine. As of today I WAS able to get jolted by the coil when turning the key. However, its not something that happens consistently. I also test spark at the plug and noted that there is spark when the coil is working right.

New Distributor.
New Coil.
2 stock PTUs for diag
1 PRW2
New 255 fuel pump
New Plugs
New Cap
New Rotor
Good Wires.
All fuses good.

I have ohm'd out the coil and it is in spec. Have a second coil that is also in spec.
I have pulled the PTU harness through the fender to the cabin and test continuity throughout the whole harness to the ecu. Continuity does exist on each wire from ECU to corresponding component connector.

On BLUE coil wire there is about 8V. On GREEN coil wire is 12v.
At CAS harness connector there is 12v on the power pin.

Still getting codes 11 and 21 for CAS and Ignition Signal. However with spark not being consistent, that should cause and issue with the CAS, at least in my theoretical mindset. However, at the same time, this issue could also be CAS no good and not signaling for coil to fire. Not sure which way to approach this any more. I have tried 3 separate EFI harnesses. 4 Distributors. All 3 PTU's. I have 2 stock ECU's and 1 Nistune ECU. I cannot use the Nistune ECU for diag with the current EFI harness due to injector impedance differences from 87 ECUs to 88.

The only NOTABLE issues that are apparent with each harness is that the interior lights are ALWAYS on when power is supplied to system. I cannot get power to ecu with EFI relay in connector. I have to jump the BLACK wire and BROWN wire. I also cannot get the fuel pump to PRIME. It does pump fuel but does not turn off after 5 seconds. This leads me to believe I may have an issue in another harness but cannot verify that yet. But with continuity throughout the harnesses I feel I should be able to atleast get spark. The fuel pump issue has been documented, but have not found a solid fix. It is documented that I WILL NOT cause the car not to get spark. GE posted that I should check my fuel circuit for the answer. I have checked wiring, swapped relays and cannot get the pump to just prime. I also cannot hear injectors click when spinning dizzy by hand. I started with a known working Pathfinder dizzy as well as a known working Z dizzy. Had the Z dizzy replaced, no improvement, so had it replaced AGAIN, and no improvement. I really dont think I have 4 BAD distributors…

Maybe Ill try to grab up another PTU for the heck of it?
I have a spare car that I was driving and have pulled both engine bay harnesses, maybe my issues lie in the cabin harness and I should pull it as well?