no spark

Have you confirmed that the distributor rotor is pointing at the proper orientation relative to tdc of the crankshaft? I had a crank no start issue before and that's what the problem was. Insalled the distributor a few teeth off.
Also I'd verify your ignition coil.

I have a good spark from the coil to dizzy just nothing after. I have pulled the dizzy multiple times to check and adjust and no change.

all you can do is swap the cap, rotor, and wires.... nothing else in the line to cause issue! ** make sure the rotor button's spring nipple in the cap is not broken off/stuck up in the cap!!!

Picked up another 87 this week. It's an NA with 154k. Fires up with battery being jumped since its dead. Bad brake light switch. However, it's a great candidate for diagnosis. Swapped dizzy cap transistor and all into this car and it fires right up. Gonna swap an ecu in and see what happens.

Swapped in ecus. One would not start the car at all. It's bad. The second one would start it but I ran like complete ass. Wouldn't idle above 400. Maybe now I'll run this known good ecu to the other car and see what happens.

Put known good ecu in car to see if it would start and there's a no go still. I'm down to thinking it's either internal engine or just an overall major wiring problem somewhere that I cannot find.

Harness from Augustus Maximus came from a running car. Swapped it in. Nothing. Car still will not start. I have put everything from dizzy to power transistor into this other z I have and it runs off these parts so there's nothing wrong with them.

I'm almost to the point of putting this engine in the other car and seeing what happens.

Sounding like something mechanical now. Are you 100% that cam to crank timing is correct?

I have adjusted it multiple times. I have the driver cam spot on with timing dot. Have installed dizzy so it is pointing to 1 on the cap. Have pulled and adjusted a single tooth both ways a no change.

Readjusted dizzy one more time. Turned shaft 1 tooth back from where it pointed to the 1 on the cap. Fired right up. Next thing will be figuring out the fuel pump bc it continues to run as long as the fuse or fusible link are connected

Check the harness to the relay

Also do you hear the relay for the fuel pump click at all?

The relay has been swapped to see if it was bad. Same problem. It's done this will 4 ecus. I've attempted to ground the ground wire to the relay and nothing changed. Maybe an issue in the shielded wire? Relay does not click. Pump runs regardless of key on or off. If battery is hooked up, pump runs. It is a walbro 255 in tank.

Did you do the hard ground mod? The Walbro draws more current than the stock pump and needs a constant 12v to run properly. It's possible a connector melted or something. You have a short to ground on the ground side of the circuit somewhere. The ecu ground side switches through the fuel pump relay. Then once it's switched, the ecu varies the voltage to the pump from 10 to 12v according to load. That's why you need to add the extra relay on the ground side of the circuit, having the ecu varying the voltage to the relay, while the switched side provides a path to ground. Doing this, the pump will always run at 12v when switched, and the ecu still thinks it's doing it's job and won't throw the fuel pump code.
Also this will probably fix your problem because your grounding it right next to the pump anyway.

I have not done the hard ground mod as it wont turn off at all if the fuse and link are connected. I have not found a melted connector and have traced all wiring from pump to relay. So all I can image is its between fuse and relay?