no spark


  • #31
    It is definitely getting fuel. That means I have 2 parts of the equation.....Air is the only thing left for it to attempt to run.

  • #32
    You using iac?
    http://z31performance.com/showthread…2-2-(-now-NA2T
    My build thread (:

  • #33
    i do NOT have IAC hooked up. Did not plan to use it with the pathy manifold. IDK the exact spec of compression but it does have compression, as you can tell when the engine is turning over. IDK what compression ratio the pistons are, will that change my results? I dont feel it has anything to do with compression though. I am gonna pull the injectors and make sure they are opening. I can hear them clicking when turning the key, but that doesnt mean they are opening fully or that all of them are opening. I am still getting codes 21 and now a 22. So also plan to once again search for an issue in the fuel pump circuit. It pumps fuel but wont turn off. just continuously runs.

  • #34
    Check your fuel pump relay , and did you adjust your idle set screw at the throttlebody? Once you delete iac , you have to use that screw to hold the TB open a little, thus setting your own idle rpm.
    http://z31performance.com/showthread…2-2-(-now-NA2T
    My build thread (:

  • #35
    Fuel pump relay does not change anything. I can completely remove the relay and pump still runs. I havent even got the car to run at all yet so I havent touched the BISS screw on the throttle body. I have however attempted to hold the throttle open while cranking and still no luck.

  • #36
    Dizzy was swaped 4 times make shure it isn't 180* out

  • #37
    Another note about the fuel pump is that as long as the fusible link is hooked up the pump will run. I do believe I have noticed it doing so even with ignition off.

  • #38
    I have re-checked the dizzy. Spark is definitely making it through to plugs so I'm not concerned too much about the spark at the moment. Now I need to figure out compression, and injectors are actually functioning properly.

  • #39
    Sounds like fuel pump is shorted to ground.
    http://z31performance.com/showthread…2-2-(-now-NA2T
    My build thread (:

  • #40
    If you manually rotate the pinion on the dizzy you will hear all the injectors clicking, once that is verified you can start looking at engine timing and/or ECU.
    Cha iro

    enjoy building it yourself.
    if it fails, fuck it.
    at least you gave it a whirl.

  • #41
    The injectors cycle when turning engine over. I'm gonna shoot a small spray of ether in to determine if it's fuel related

  • #42
    Codes are down to a 22. I have found that everything back to the fuse is good as when unhooking components prior to fuse it all stops the pump from running. Unplugging the fuse also does so. That makes me think I have a problem post fuse and between fuse and relay possibly? Does this sound right? If I unplug the blue relay the pump still runs. The pump runs regardless of key position so it's getting power at all times. The ecu turns off so it's not ecu related.

    So I should inspect wiring between fuse and relay?

  • #43
    Unless you hardwired the pump, it shouldn't be running all the time. Time to swap ECU.
    Cha iro

    enjoy building it yourself.
    if it fails, fuck it.
    at least you gave it a whirl.

  • #44
    I do not think it is related to the ecu. Having swapped out 3 computers and having the same issue makes me think it has something to do with the wiring from fuse to the pump and more-so from fuse to relay. 2 of the computers have been known to work in my other z and the 3rd is a nistune ecu that was working with the Previous Owner. I plan to inspect the wiring from fuse panel to relay today and depending on what I find, relay to pump. Removing the underhood relay or fuse cuts power to pump. Removing in car relay does nothing meaning power is being passed through somehow.

  • #45
    I have revisited spark again as I found after an initial jolt there is not spark at the plugs. I originally confirmed spark after being shocked with the plug. I have since found out that I can get one spark out and then nothing else. New wires have been installed along with another new ignition rotor and a known good cap. Still cannot get spark. Charging battery for another go at it.