How-To: Installing a 2005 Nissan Titan 150 amp Alternator

Re: How-To: Installing a 2005 Nissan Titan 150 amp Alternato

Sweet stuff!
Maybe if I need to I can do this and save alot of headaches in the future!

Good find 8)

Re: How-To: Installing a 2005 Nissan Titan 150 amp Alternato

Just incase any of this info helps anyone…

The alternator is HITACHI Part # LR1130701BAM

It can be found on the following cars

Infiniti QX56 2004-2007
Nissan Armada 2005-2007
Nissan Pathfinder 2004
Nissan Titan 2004-2007

The Titan alt I just picked up has the tensioner hole in a slightly different position, I'll get pics of it later on.

Ok keep us posted I'm interested in this mod.90amp max is on is way out.

I did this upgrade…absolutely killer plenty of juice and no issues so far

I realize this is an old post, but you have to realize something.... The alternator spins a LOT faster than the motor because of the pulley size differences.

If the drive pulley (on the car) is twice as big as the driven pulley, then the alternator spins twice as fast as the motor.

So..... Your 1,000 RPM idle is spinning the alternator at 2,000rpms. I don't know what the actual numbers are for the ratio, but it's very simple to calculate.

Diameter of the crank pulley divided by the diameter of the alternator pulley is the number of times faster the alternator is spinning than the indicated engine RPM. Just a guess, but I'm thinking the crank pulley is at least twice as big as the alt pulley here. So it will be over 90amps any time the motor is idling.

I just got home after finishing this upgrade. My alternator looks much larger than yours does in the pictures. I will take photos of the bracket I made and the aftermath of such install. I can do a more thorough install guide as well to get added to this How To Guide.

Did anybody who has completed this upgrade need to run a heavier gauge wire for anything?
Or is the stock wiring still enough?

I used stock wiring… no issues.

The only reason you'd need to run a lower gauge would be if the alternator was pumping out more volts.

Being amperage the factory stuff handles it just fine.

This makes no sense, it's the amperage that determines wire gauge/diameter. why is the starter feed cable huge from the battery? - Amps!

anyway, staying on topic, I made a 1/4" spacer and used this: the 3.75" version
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Stalla…FVFp7AodxmcAbg

Not to be a dick, but amps are probably the most important thing to consider when deciding an appropriate gauge wire to handle a load.

Pics? What is the spacer for?
The rod you linked to can be used in place of the custom metal bracket extension part that was in the OP? shaped similar to a T ?

I need to get it back out of the box, I mocked it up on my spare engine, then boxed it till I can put it on. the spacer is to get the heim away from the alt, as it was binding against the front of the alt. the rod rids you of the need for the adjuster bracket and T part etc. run the rod from the mounting point on the engine, to the lower mount on the alt!

Fantastic. I'll try it this way. Still have to compile a turbo crank and water pump pulley, as well as the belt and alternator itself.
I'll end up chopping the middle of that harness and extending it so it fits comfortably. Btw do you know the gauge of all the wires in the harness? I'm guessing it's 14 gauge for the thick white wire? I'll probably just use 11 gauge for the smaller wires and 10 for the thick one ( for like 6 inches of extension )