boring a vg30 out to vg33 will Not work

Exactly… This is something I have always said. I have NEVER seen a z31 rod or a crank break from too much power. My buddy has a bend rod, but it is from the previous owner hydro locking the car.

Also, Zfast, I agree, stiff does not mean strong. It CAN mean strong, but it can also mean brittle. However, how did you learn about the case hardening thickness of the z31 crank? Is this for the A/B series as well or just the W series?

nothing more than what some of us @Z31P already knew. Myself not included, that's why I posted it … it was new to me as it was to many members.

I found that mounting accessories isn't as hard as it really turns out to be with a lot of other car swaps. It's no different than most domestic or jap/euro swaps. The VG30ET is just a bitch to work on in most cases anyways. But I've come to know how to do things quickly now.

Some things you just have to work around. my crank cost money because i had no choice. The value in what I posted is simply there to illustrate that one can use what ever they have if all they have is a VG33 and a blown up VG30 to grab parts from.

If I had the chance to do it again for the first time, I sure as hell would use my VG30 crank… simply because it's out of the car now. And for no other reason. But If I were to do it again after modifying my brackets and parts, I would find another vg33 crank because It would line up with my modified accessories… Then again, it's only like one bracket I changed anyway…

so what I'm saying is I'd use any crank you have or the one that takes the least amount of money to bring back into your desired specifications.

I searched for VG33 Crank information and found some guy Mitch saying that using the 33 crank and grinding the snout to accept Z31 accessories is the best way. At that point I thought… WTH, I'm just gonna use my damn vg33 crank and stop worrying about it, and just deal with accessories when I get to that point… and I just mounted my new power steering pump this evening, so all I need is another slight modification and the belt will go on. No big deal.

It will drive up the cost because of the additional parts like belts and shit you gotta buy that arent standard. But if you need to get it running and moving… use what you have. It will work if you make it work.

Most of us will not put the crank through enough stress to break one that is in good lick anyway.

Everyone who may consider following me in my exploits to build a 3.7L VG33 may want to put there plans on hold.

Uh, oh, what happened? :-D :-(

That doesn't sound like a headgasket now…

[quote]SATAN wrote: I wont know til after I return to the shop after the Thanksgiving day weekend, but part of me is worried by the suddeness and rapid rise of ECT that there may potentially be a crack in one of the cylinder walls.

This is why I minimized how much of the information/pics were public before the engine made X amount of longevity. Will know more black friday.

Damn you!!!! :-(

[quote]badboyz31 wrote: Don't run 22lbs boost from twin 35r's and you will probably be fine. :lol:

[quote]SATAN wrote: [quote=badboyz31]hahaha what about twin holsets? :lol:

Needs moar block. :twisted:

my fingers be crossed for yee, matey!

Needs less bore?!?!

Wonder if dart will make a 1 off billet VG37 block for under 10K…LOL NOPE

FYI, one the first run at 22PSI we made 697 with a super conversative tune…So most people on a VG37 will be completely ok.

That would be some epic bling though. Wut wut!
Seriously though, I'm hoping it is a different issue than what we are speculating.

Im having one of the guys tear the manifolds/turbos/intakes off the engine so when I get back alls I will have to do is pull the heads myself. I want to be able to see how the gaskets come off instead of just getting a description from someone else pulling it apart.

If the gaskets show obvious signs of damage, Ill do a quick visual of the block and slap it back together with new head gaskets. If theres no sign of damage to the headgaskets, Ill pull the engine, strip it to the block and check it for cracks.

Its also possible that we lifted one of the heads. I find this hard to believe though with the number of bolts per cylinder on the heads.

Well, are you still using bolts or are you using studs? My buddy lifted a head on a DSM he was tuning. He made over 1000whp on it, but then a violent explosion of coolant went everywhere, through the engine out the tail pipe, out of the engine bay and everything. I asked him about the studs. He told me that they were just regular ARP studs and that they were upping them to some special ARP studs (don't remember the real name).

how large of a bore would one be able to run if they were using some ductile iron sleeves? or is it just a going to add strength and bring you back down to stock-ish bore level?

is it even possible/neccessary?