electric water pump?

Why shouldnt it? Same gasket means same base mounting. Some variables may be depth of the impeller etc. NM took a second look. I hope someone looks into this. Could be win at a cheaper price.

Thanks … those pics could prove valuable. The snouts/flanges being different might not matter, as they probably have to size up to different belt locations in space --- as well as different pulley belts. The only fitment issue that might arise is one with the timing belt covers; will the protruding pump body interfere?

Why not remove the covers all together/ modify them, if the issue arises.

Of course one could do that with the covers … but the best case would be that it's not necessary. Personally, I wouldn't want to go around with the covers off, should anything get between the belt and a gear. But that's just me.

Every electric water pump I have used has burned up within 1 year of purchase.

For the VG30's, I don't believe there are that many choices out there. I also think the basic pump/motor is the same as the one being sold at MotorSport Auto for the 240 - 280 Z's. It's made by CSR --- not exactly a shabby outfit. I'll also admit that the price for our engine set-up is well over the top, and is really for racers looking for that extra bit of power. But if the car is driven mostly on weekends and good weather --- and you have the $$$$ --- it might just be fun to have as bragging rights.

Also, I have to ask, was there any form of speed control on your pumps to regulate temperature, or did you merely rely on your thermostat? Without using electronic temperature sensing to regulate motor speed (and removing the thermostat), the unit is running at full tilt all the time and may be the cause of early motor failure. The one I pointed to earlier uses pulse-width voltage control to home in on whatever temperature you wish to keep the engine coolant, and the pump will merely idle along (so to speak) to keep it there, thus extending its life significantly. I'm rather surprised MotorSport doesn't even make mention of this.

the old shop I interned at had a race car that would run on a low PWM setting during the tire warming, and the pump would go full out during staging at the tree. it was a 10 second car, so by no means slow (actually held a world record at the time).

probably why Zfast88 mentioned that most of the pumps he's used burn out within a year. maybe not for prolonged use.

I don't see a reason to run one for a street car… yet. try and tell us how it goes? LOL

Running full out on the CSR pump claims 37 GPM. Hell, the faucet on my bathtub with both valves wide open can't fill my tub (~ 45 gallons) anywhere near just 1 minute … and that's flowing like a fireman's hose. So basically full flow is way more than what's needed for street use. Plus, the EWP can cycle up and down in a gradual manner as needed … instead of trying to accelerate the coolant flow in direct proportion as one is trying to accelerate the crank.

They don't last for street use. Even when run with a motor controller.

So what are you waiting for, exactly?
Have you purchased it yet?

Let us know how it goes.

Calm down over there … I've got 50 things going on all at once here, and that's just on the Z. Besides, has the fitment issue on the z31 block been fully resolved yet?

I'm definitely going to be installing an electric fan, but I'm torn between the Flex-a-Lite Syclone (2500 CFM) and the SPAL straight blade (2370 CFM). Both are 16 inch fans and can be installed as pushers; however, the Syclone has curved blades, making it quieter, but the SPAL has better customer satisfaction reviews. I will need a pusher, as the EWP will be extending out to about where the OEM fan does, and for reasons I won't get into right now, the electric fan will be radially mounted to the OEM lower fan shroud (perpendicular bolts and spacers for centering), and if I install it as a puller, its motor will bump up against the EWP motor.

Also, since we're on the subject, perhaps you can explain something for me. I know about the upper temperature sensor on the lower intake manifold (driver's side cylinder head?), but what exactly does it do when the coolant reaches its set point? Is it merely a switch (on/off) or is it a thermocouple/thermistor of sorts? And the same goes for the one located at the base of the radiator. (I think that one turns on the auxiliary pusher fan in front of the condenser --- but that's all been removed, for good.)

Oh … before I forget. High kudos for Nissan of McKinney for going the extra mile in getting for me the best price (including shipping) on a Nismo/Euro-spec 300ZX radiator. The gentleman that did all the work was Robert Lacy.

OK … I just today (minutes ago) removed both front timing belt covers (upper/lower) along with all associated belts and pulleys. (BTW … it looks like if one is to go with an EWP as mentioned earlier, the alternator belt --- using a 90 amp Maxima alternator on the passenger side --- needs to now be 30 to 31 inches in total circumferential length.) Also, from what I can gather, there might be a need for some timing belt cover cutting --- emphasis on might. Looking back and forth between the engine bay and the photos of the EWP pieces on the internet, it just might fit as is. But that overall motor/pump assembly must be pretty small if that's the case.

More to come.

(PS: It was fun getting that crank pulley off with the gear puller.)

I used a 32" belt on my NA2T with the waterpump and alt on the pass side, so how would removing the waterpump result in a 31"?

It's going to be determined by which alternator you use. I upgraded my engine to the 90 amp Maxima alternator, which incorporated an adapter bracket for it to fit alongside where the stock unit was. How much did this reconfigure the pulley in space? … not sure, exactly. And going to an electric water pump (the CSR direct drive unit as mentioned earlier) eliminates part of the belt loop, shortening it somewhat. Now the belt for the alternator only goes from crank pulley to alternator. So, what I did was loop a piece of string around both pulleys and measure its length. And there's one more issue. To change said belt, one must remove the crank pulley (or risk bending the timing indicator arrow) in order to loop it on, then place the crank pulley back on.

So your best bet in determining the belt length might just be to loop a piece of string around those two pulleys as I mentioned above and see what you get. My 31 inch length was significantly less (~10 inches) than the pulley belt I removed.

OK … I just measured the belt I removed from the alternator/water pump, and it's 41 inches in circumference. I think you might want to re-measure yours.

[quote]NewJerseyZ wrote: I know what size belt I bought, so maybe you should remeasure yours. This is on a passenger-side mounted alternator, for a turbo car.