electric water pump?

Well, basically the style you link to is not truly a way of eliminating all of the parasitic inefficiencies of a belt driven pump. It's merely an electric motor used to drive a --- belt driven pump. The BDE pump is a direct drive unit; no belts what-so-ever.

Please post pictures of this modification

You're going to love this answer … I can't (at this time), otherwise I most certainly would have.

But basically, if it's the spacer you're questioning, it is shaped from the gasket between the thermostat housing to engine block. Here is a link to where exactly it is used. (Part 11072 --- near diagram bottom.) I believe that after the indicated date, it was attached by merely using gasket sealant directly --- no gasket. But if you go with using the spacer, you will need two (2) of these gaskets (above and below), regardless of model year.

The gasket shape is very simple, a rectangular coolant hole with two outer holes to pass through the housing mounting bolts. It can be made from standard 1/4 inch thick flat aluminum stock, so starting material is very easy to come by and should be common to fabricators. They can then cut the material to conform to the gasket. Their only issue will be the 1 degree downward slant toward the engine block's rear; simply have it made/slant perpendicular to the line drawn going through both bolt holes. (No more than 1 degree is needed … but it's still advisable to have this slant.) My local fabricator actually had little issue with the 1 degree slant.

please explain how the $80 off the shelf kit takes more hp to turn than the expensive BDE kit. unless you have both setup's on the same vehicle for back to back testing of both power and cooling capability you can not justify the extra $500+

if you are doing it just to do it, you picked the wrong car to build.

There's actually another reason, or two.

1) The Moroso is intended/indicated for racing use, not street use, so I'm not sure exactly how that will hold up for a daily/occasional driver. The CSR is intended for daily use, and depending on how one controls it (DC-controller-wise) it can be varied with demand.

2) Also, I believe the Moroso uses one's existing pump with a pulley attached to the motor instead of the crank. The BDE pump is directly driven and modified with better vanes (now curved) than the stock pump which increases efficiency and flow. How much, I don't know. But one can see that it is very well machined.

Now, you are correct --- only a good A/B comparison on the Dyno (3 pulls each) will show whether there really is that much of a difference or not, but reason number 1 is my real concern. Of course, the final decision it totally up to the end user --- isn't it always?

another thing to consider is the high failure rate of those CSR motors, well at least the old style are known for dying

ok, so … any pics? I'd like to see this rather than just talk about how crappy the pumps are or how they die frequently.
I just wanna see it bolted up regardless of how it performs. that will be a test of time, so we can discuss that later.

Davies Craig have a big name here in Aus. High quality stuff from what I've seen.

http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Electric_ … -list.aspx

Edit: Just realised with the current exchange rate it doesn't really matter how good the gear is, it's going to be too expensive for most Americans at the moment.

I was kinda thinking about doing a inline fuel pump as a water pump. just plumb it in and then when you want some extra flow or when your cooling down on the side of the track just flip a switch or wire it up to your efan relay

I wish I could oblige, but no working digital camera. Don't worry though, there is plenty I wish to document with pictures. I'm also replacing/upgrading a good many pieces now that the entire front of the engine is apart. I'm also upgrading my injectors, so there's that to work on as well. (And this frigid weather of late isn't incentivising any work being done as well.)

Some other notes on the spacer/water pump:

1) The new longer bolts needed are M8-1.25 x 80 (thermostat housing). PepBoys has them for $4.00/pair, but you'll still need a flat washer and spring washer for each, as the OEM ones off the original shorter bolts don't easily come off; besides, you'll want new ones to go with the new shiny bolts.

2) There will be some metal cutting needed in order to replace the timing belt front covers over the belt and around the body of the pump. Ordinary sheet metal shears will work well, and the fresh cut edge can be covered with "grommet edging" --- just be sure to use the high temperature material. Grommet edging can be found through Newark Electronics or equivalent supplier.

3) If you haven't figured it out yet, the cam gears will have to be removed to get at the thermostat housing bolts --- at least, I believe this to be the case. Removing the rear timing belt cover certainly makes working on this project much easier.

Oh … by-the-way, is the 7.8 compression VG30ET an interference engine? One of my cams (right side) rotated about 180 degrees while I was removing the cam gear with the crank at TDC for No. 1 cylinder. I felt absolutely no abrupt or striking force while this happened (slowly) and find it hard to think such a low compression engine would have issues. My cam has a lift of 0.392" and I have 1mm oversized Ferrea valves --- remember, this is with no oil pressure.

yes

[quote]Careless wrote: Ooook … so why did I not feel anything strike the piston?

Don't see the need for an electric coolant pump at all, the coolant will thermo syphon by itself after shutdown. An electric thermo fan that can be kept running after shutdown is the usual solution.

[quote]NewJerseyZ wrote: [quote=Careless]maybe it did, and you just don't know it :-P

well if you wanted your car to cool down faster (which I do so i can spend more time on the track) its better to have the water cycle through the system.