Brakes working too good…


  • #16
    Originally posted by jaqattack02 View Post
    My plan is to upgrade both my rear calipers and rear pad compound. I just haven't actually gotten around to doing that. Need to swap my rear control arms first, along with getting the M30 ebrake drums installed.
    On a side note, for those that have seen the suspension Arizona Z makes for S30's…he's actually finalizing a similar setup for Z31's. Apparently it eliminates the crossmember and swing arms and utilizes a strut …can't wait to see that. Its gonna be interesting to see something that beautiful underneath a Z31.

  • #17
    Originally posted by G-E
    The easiest/free upgrade you can try is shimming the rear bias spring in the master cylinder until it binds, it can be a pain to do…

    It will eliminate the regular split point that stops the rears getting additional clamping above a certain pressure

    It's very likely that's _all_ you need to do
    Thanks good tip, that was also discussed in jaq's link and it sounded interesting…

    Wait, did you say "easiest" and "it can be a pain" in the same sentence?!

  • #18
    If I were you, I would start with the pad compound and see where that gets you. I don't find mine all that bad, as it only does it when you seriously crank down on the brakes hard. The way the car stops, I can't imagine hitting them that hard unless it was a super panic stop, I've only done it when testing the brakes.
    Prius… because Pretentious wouldn't fit across the back of the car…

    Cheap, Fast, Reliable - pick any two

    My 1986 Turbo Build

  • #19
    Originally posted by jaqattack02
    If I were you, I would start with the pad compound and see where that gets you. I don't find mine all that bad, as it only does it when you seriously crank down on the brakes hard. The way the car stops, I can't imagine hitting them that hard unless it was a super panic stop, I've only done it when testing the brakes.
    Will definitely be my first step, thanks very much.

  • #20
    What pads do you have in the front and back now? What rear pads are you gonna switch to?
    Shiro #443


  • #21
    FYI, NT01 and R888's are not meant for street use.
    Justin
    1986 NA 2-seater
    SCCA Solo E-Street Prepared #31
    Race Videos
    Build Thread

  • #22
    Originally posted by Rick88ss View Post
    What pads do you have in the front and back now? What rear pads are you gonna switch to?
    I think I'm gonna go with hawk hp plus in the rear
    Fronts are something called BP-20 I believe.

  • #23
    Originally posted by frostvectron View Post
    FYI, NT01 and R888's are not meant for street use.
    Don't tell that to the GTR crowd down here!

    But technically, yes you're right…but it won't be a problem.

    It's not a daily driver and I don't plan on driving it in the rain anyway.
    I have several friends with GTR's and Supras that run one of those two on their daily drivers with no problem.

    I have Advan A048's on my 240Z which is also a competition tire not for street use and no issues.

  • #24
    Originally posted by boosted300 View Post
    I think I'm gonna go with hawk hp plus in the rear
    Fronts are something called BP-20 I believe.
    You may also look at going to a Wilwood BP-10 in the front. From what I remember the BP-20 is the more aggressive track oriented pad, while the BP-10 is designed to be for street use with occasional track time.
    Prius… because Pretentious wouldn't fit across the back of the car…

    Cheap, Fast, Reliable - pick any two

    My 1986 Turbo Build

  • #25
    Originally posted by boosted300 View Post
    Wait, did you say "easiest" and "it can be a pain" in the same sentence?!
    It can be a pain to do the surgery on the master, some use a 5-point allen head screw, others are locktited, but it's "easy" in the sense that you don't have to touch the car's dirty bits

  • #26
    Originally posted by jaqattack02 View Post
    You may also look at going to a Wilwood BP-10 in the front. From what I remember the BP-20 is the more aggressive track oriented pad, while the BP-10 is designed to be for street use with occasional track time.
    ^ THIS!

    On my Wilwood Dynalite 4-piston setup on my B13 I use the BP-10 as the street pads for the front. It stops the same as stock and I can lock up the tiny rear drums slightly before the fronts. My track pads are the Poly-Q compound, which is basically a dirt track compound and several grades higher than the BP-20. The BP-20s I used before the BP-10s had more bite and kind of sensitive to initial input for a street pad, which made it kind of jerky/grabby and annoying.

    1986 300ZX Turbo…sold
    1990 Skyline GT-R…new money pit
    2014 Juke Nismo RS 6-speed…daily

  • #27
    To be honest, I'm not positive which pads I have, I forgot! I have to pull one out and look at the number…

    however, they feel very streetable for the most part…after some aggressive braking they feel a little "grindy" almost like metal on metal…which I've always found a little unusual.

    I'll let you guys know as soon as I get a chance to look at them.


    But (assuming I have BP-20's) rather than downgrade the fronts…wouldn't I rather upgrade the rears?

  • #28
    Originally posted by jaqattack02 View Post
    You may also look at going to a Wilwood BP-10 in the front. From what I remember the BP-20 is the more aggressive track oriented pad, while the BP-10 is designed to be for street use with occasional track time.
    I run BP-10 on the Wilwood 4 pot fronts and EBC green stuff in the rear. Seems to be a good balance but the fronts will lock up prior to the rears. However the car doesnt dive forward under hard braking which gives it a balanced feel.

    z31s could really use a simple solution to adapt z32 rear caliper setup. It would balance out a lot of the front brake upgrades widely available.



    A lot of awesome information on here. Quite impressed to see some of the heavy hitters back providing some good insights!
    86na - BlueZ
    Shiro #366 - Kouki Monster
    85t - Mr Tickles

  • #29
    Originally posted by adamvann3 View Post
    I run BP-10 on the Wilwood 4 pot fronts and EBC green stuff in the rear. Seems to be a good balance but the fronts will lock up prior to the rears. However the car doesnt dive forward under hard braking which gives it a balanced feel.

    z31s could really use a simple solution to adapt z32 rear caliper setup. It would balance out a lot of the front brake upgrades widely available.



    A lot of awesome information on here. Quite impressed to see some of the heavy hitters back providing some good insights!
    You know I was thinking the exact same thing…I might have missed it, but it seems that's something no one here has really done?

    I have a friend with a pretty radical S130 and he has the Z32 front and rears…I asked him about the rears and he said he just had to make a bracket…

    Is it just not that simple for us?

  • #30
    I have a simple solution for the z32 rears including keeping the ebrake. The issue is that it uses M30 or R31 skyline parts, neither of which are all that easy to come by.
    Prius… because Pretentious wouldn't fit across the back of the car…

    Cheap, Fast, Reliable - pick any two

    My 1986 Turbo Build