bixenon Projector Retrofit. **kouki retro in progress**

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  • #76
    looks great!!!
    86 NA
    87 Turbo
    Member of the "zetto sun-ichi" group


    Local MN car forum/club anyone welcome..... fivezeroseven.net join!
  • #77
    Bump??
  • #78
    I havnt got the car back yet May 5th I will have it and im going to pay for em the week before and that way the car and lights will be together in the same place around the same time, I will be sure to put pics up when that time comes!
    1989 Nissan 300zx Turbo "MAW Edition"
    viewtopic.php?f=13&t=10617
  • #79
    J18199 wrote: I havnt got the car back yet May 5th I will have it and im going to pay for em the week before and that way the car and lights will be together in the same place around the same time, I will be sure to put pics up when that time comes!
    Good, then we can photoshop them with the LEDs in them. :nanan?re
  • #80
    Though im happy with the lens, im not to happy about the glue inside. Its a little clumpy,what do you think.

    Im using a glue that honda uses, its not butyl. Its stronger, and holds WAY better than butyl. If I were to put butyl on here, the lens would have a tendency to come off in the heat. With this stuff, its strong as hell (also pricy) but not messy.

    I also had to re-modify the rear of the unit so that the projector will mount correctly. Now it will be easier for someone to adjust the rotation if they had to. Also I incoorporated 2 air vents "just incase". I was contemplating on this for a whole week on how to vent these. Some people say dont, some say yes…So I said yeup.





    with the bracket on.







    See, through the front of the lens, the seam is almost invisible.


    see..I dont like the globy glue


    Look it has a very small ghost ha-lo effect lol.





    My Build Thread
  • #81
    Dunno if this would work but if there was an inner border between the lense and backing to cover the glue then that might work. So for instance if the was a thin piece of metal drilled to the lense and then bent (say maybe 45°) then the space behind it would have the glue. Think something like __/. The glue would be where the period is.

    On the bottom the metal might cover the bottom of the lense assembly (not the lense itself) depending on the angle of the bend. The top would follow the same rules except a thin set of LEDs would cover anything. 8) The sides would pose no problem.
  • #82
    Ven wrote: Dunno if this would work but if there was an inner border between the lense and backing to cover the glue then that might work. So for instance if the was a thin piece of metal drilled to the lense and then bent (say maybe 45°) then the space behind it would have the glue. Think something like __/. The glue would be where the period is.

    On the bottom the metal might cover the bottom of the lense assembly (not the lense itself) depending on the angle of the bend. The top would follow the same rules except a thin set of LEDs would cover anything. 8) The sides would pose no problem.
    if you go through the trouble of adding metal, why not have the metal bent to be the actual lens retainer like a spring-clip on a gm air filter box?

    surely a removable lens would be even better? think chips/scratches..
  • #83
    The lense inside? How would that get any chips or scratches if it's in the plexi box?

    If anyone was concerned about the plexi (or whatever material it is) housing getting chipped/scratched then they could easily opt for the 3M clear wrap to cover it. I'm sure the area needed to cover the front of the housings for both lights wouldn't cost that much.
  • #84
    Ven wrote: The lense inside? How would that get any chips or scratches if it's in the plexi box?

    If anyone was concerned about the plexi (or whatever material it is) housing getting chipped/scratched then they could easily opt for the 3M clear wrap to cover it. I'm sure the area needed to cover the front of the housings for both lights wouldn't cost that much.
    yes I meant the plexi outer "lens", much easier if it's a clip on, and even cleaner for the glue situation… make it a sandwich clamp with a couple small springs on the side pulling them shut and done!
  • #85
    [quote]G-E wrote:
    Originally posted by Ven
    The lense inside? How would that get any chips or scratches if it's in the plexi box?

    If anyone was concerned about the plexi (or whatever material it is) housing getting chipped/scratched then they could easily opt for the 3M clear wrap to cover it. I'm sure the area needed to cover the front of the housings for both lights wouldn't cost that much.yes I meant the plexi outer "lens", much easier if it's a clip on, and even cleaner for the glue situation… make it a sandwich clamp with a couple small springs on the side pulling them shut and done!
    thats way to much work, less reliability, whole lots of fabrication, and probably ugly. This glue is still removable. Just some heat and it will come off, same as the oem in hondas, nissans etc.

    This plexi I choose is thicker, but anything will have a tendency to get chipped. But if you think about it, glass is more prone to this because they will shatter. Plastic wont. If I were to guess, maybe about 6 years you may need to wetsand and buff these down. But put a layer of protection every month or 2, and it will last a LONG time.

    There are people who did what I did but with much thinner lenses, and 3 years to date they only have a few nicks which is common.
    My Build Thread
  • #86
    Any idea how well these will illuminate the road using the 'Sleepy Eye' look on the late model nose? Are they a short enough profile that more than half of the bulb can peek out? Or not a clue?

    Build thread http://z31performance.com/showthread…-Paint-done-eh
  • #87
    stufferton wrote: Any idea how well these will illuminate the road using the 'Sleepy Eye' look on the late model nose? Are they a short enough profile that more than half of the bulb can peek out? Or not a clue?
    I played with the idea by finding out exactly where the bumper covers the light and used black tape. Lighting sucks. Its the design of the projector and it needs to use the lens of the projector to get full light. When I did it, all you saw was a cutoff line. No foreground at all.
    My Build Thread
  • #88
    [quote]862sik wrote:
    Originally posted by stufferton
    Any idea how well these will illuminate the road using the 'Sleepy Eye' look on the late model nose? Are they a short enough profile that more than half of the bulb can peek out? Or not a clue?
    I played with the idea by finding out exactly where the bumper covers the light and used black tape. Lighting sucks. Its the design of the projector and it needs to use the lens of the projector to get full light. When I did it, all you saw was a cutoff line. No foreground at all.
    Great work man. Keep up the quest. If you don't like seeing the glue and you decide to make additional sets you could

    always use painters' tape to mask up the center portion of the headlight housing face and spray paint the perimeter (trim)

    flat black. Do this from the INSIDE first, give it plenty of time to dry and the glue will stick fine to it. For the '87+ guys.

    viewtopic.php?f=4&t=28869&hilit=projector
    Everything is Meaningless.
  • #89
    [quote]PulseCode wrote: [quote=862sik]
    Originally posted by stufferton
    Any idea how well these will illuminate the road using the 'Sleepy Eye' look on the late model nose? Are they a short enough profile that more than half of the bulb can peek out? Or not a clue?
    I played with the idea by finding out exactly where the bumper covers the light and used black tape. Lighting sucks. Its the design of the projector and it needs to use the lens of the projector to get full light. When I did it, all you saw was a cutoff line. No foreground at all.

    Great work man. Keep up the quest. If you don't like seeing the glue and you decide to make additional sets you could

    always use painters' tape to mask up the center portion of the headlight housing face and spray paint the perimeter (trim)

    flat black. Do this from the INSIDE first, give it plenty of time to dry and the glue will stick fine to it. For the '87+ guys.

    http://z31performance.com/forum/viewtop … =projector
    Then how would you take out the tape after you put the lens on? lol.

    I havent had time, but it should be easy to make it less noticable. But in the future I will probably find a metal tube that I can load a bunch of this sealant in. Heat the whole thing up, then spread it evenly and uniformly. It should be pretty clean.

    But, I am not sure if I will do this for anyone anymore lol. Maybe just provide the lens.
    My Build Thread
  • #90
    The glue probably won't even be noticeable anyway once installed (can't believe their aren't any kouki Z31 owners in your area lol). But you have to make at least 1 more set for me. LOL :twisted:

    It'd look especially badass with Q45 projectors.
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