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huh, Ive done it a few times with a super cheap crappy mig on my KA's. I did use bolts and weld around the perimeter of the bottom but I was told nuts work better. Maybe just weld right on the broken stud with nothing in the way and then weld the nut to the new material? IDK its never failed me.
~Alexsplatter fake blood on fubar'd quarter and roll out.
pedestrians=mobile clipping points -Benedict on PurePontiackid's 280zx -
[quote]Careless wrote:Yup i got it for free, Christmas present from the GF, and yes it's 7 years older than me. But when a previous owner doesn't fix things properly cause it's to hard it pisses me offOriginally posted by 628sxTurbo Rotories… 60% of the time.... they work every time.. -
What broken studs? My Z31s dont have any (anymore). :nanan?reCareless wrote: once you replace just about everything once or twice, you'll be to about where most of use 2+ year veterans are. :nanan?re- VG30DET (HE341) 86 300ZX - 1982 280ZX Turbo - Headered NA 1986 300ZX 2+2 - 2000 Xterra - -
Yeah, neither will I as soon as i get these ones out
Turbo Rotories… 60% of the time.... they work every time.. -
I guess I should go ahead and upgrade to LS6 bolts or the ARP studs while I have the engine out, huh? -
YES. the LS6 ones i got are the same thing as stock LS1 bolts so my local gm dealer lists them under LS6. But ya saves alot of troubleTurbo Rotories… 60% of the time.... they work every time.. -
When I pulled my engine originally I had 0 broken studs. The engine had 63k miles too though :twisted:Usual Z31 suspect: Garage Queen (aka broken)
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I broke the easy out inside the hole.... I got a de-burring tool and finally got a center good enough to drill than got a perfect hole for an easy out… Needless to say I went and bought a better extractor set and better drill bit to drill out the broken one tomorrow gotta go to work till 3am now. I also work 11 am to 8 pm saturday, so i cant work on it till 8
Turbo Rotories… 60% of the time.... they work every time.. -
Are you using left or right hand drill bits?The bullshit stops, when the GREEN light drops.
Only babies cry about the bottle. -
Well, I don't about your drill bits, but I can use mine in either hand. Lol. But I'm using regular old clockwise cutting bits. Only problem is that now instead of drilling into a steel stud, I have to drill into the hardened steel of the stud extractor (Although the stud extractor bites counter clockwise).ZFast88Z wrote: Are you using left or right hand drill bits?Turbo Rotories… 60% of the time.... they work every time.. -
Nothing is working, Not even starting to drill a larger hole to re-tap for a larger bolt is getting this bit out…
Turbo Rotories… 60% of the time.... they work every time.. -
Where is it stuck? Seems it would be more worth it to just buy a new manifold or a new cylinder head on that side if you are having that much trouble. -
Um not really. It's on the drivers side, back exhaust port. But if that head happens to come off, then that stud is coming out. It will cost enough having to replace EVERYTHING associated with pulling the head anyway. This is gay…Turbo Rotories… 60% of the time.... they work every time.. -
Why not use these. Way cheaper than ARP and they don't break.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/14004a-stu … 53844.html
And other online Nissan sites have it for as little as $2.33Cha iro
enjoy building it yourself.
if it fails, fuck it.
at least you gave it a whirl. -
Ya, ship a set of those to me and it'll still cost me $45 and 2 weeks.Turbo Rotories… 60% of the time.... they work every time..
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