Header Studs


  • #61
    Murphys law......

    Silver 86T 3" turbo back Cm exhaust ST Springs / Tokiko Blues
    87-89 turbo front hubs z32 brakes in front Z32 Master Cylinder
    Autometer boost gauge a-pillar pod, autometer oil temp and pressure.
    5zigen FN01R-C FRONT 17x8.5 245/45 REAR 17x10 285/40 rubber Kumho ECSTA ASX
    Turbo XS BC, EGRblocked off, 5% limo tint

  • #62
    so just unbolt the brake master cylinder, unbolt the clip that holds the lines to the firewall, and use a bungee cord to hold it out of the way. You can move it a good bit out of the way without permanently bending the lines or doing any damage. it's two bolts and a cotter pin on the inside of the car.

  • #63
    Yeah i know, i just dont wanna..... but i guess i haveta....
    Turbo Rotories… 60% of the time.... they work every time..

  • #64
    F*ck murphy, the the law of " I cant really see the bolts… i'll just tighten a little more and that should be good… SNAP SNAP… awe f*ck it the next guy will deal with them"
    Turbo Rotories… 60% of the time.... they work every time..

  • #65
    I bet you wish you went with the sep as studs now eh??

    1988 300zxt. gt35, stance, etc. Wheels: Varrstoen ES2 18x9.5 et-13 225/40. 18x10.5 et0 245/40
    1990 jetta vr6'd

  • #66
    sep?
    Turbo Rotories… 60% of the time.... they work every time..

  • #67
    Ss, Damn autocorrect.

    1988 300zxt. gt35, stance, etc. Wheels: Varrstoen ES2 18x9.5 et-13 225/40. 18x10.5 et0 245/40
    1990 jetta vr6'd

  • #68
    No, Im talking about the stock studs breaking. I have LS1 studs ready to go in. But it just seems like alot of things on this car the previous owners have neglected. And it's always the hardest ones to get at that they don't fix. People who want to own a car to drive their asses around EVERYDAY should never neglect the condition of something they rely on so heavily. It just pisses me off i guess
    Turbo Rotories… 60% of the time.... they work every time..

  • #69
    628sx wrote: People who want to own a car to drive their asses around EVERYDAY should never neglect the condition of something they rely on so heavily. It just pisses me off i guess
    can't believe you said that since you bought the car from someone who didn't want to drive it around everyday anymore. That's exactly why you have it, isn't it? what did you expect? its probably older than you!

    you probably got it for a "good price" right? come on. don't bitch about it, just get it done and move on to the next broken thing. once you replace just about everything once or twice, you'll be to about where most of use 2+ year veterans are. :nanan?re

  • #70
    I had the hardest time getting the two nuts on the back side of the manifold that bolt to the turbo. don't get me started on those tabs.

  • #71
    Oh im getting started… fucking after all of that tab bullshit now i cant get the drill to center on the studs SO STUPID… NISSAN = FAIL.. I'm sorry but the big N has gone down a couple of notches in my book. freeking retarded.
    Turbo Rotories… 60% of the time.... they work every time..

  • #72
    now i either have to rent a welder or find a triangle grinder stone or something to grind down the peak that has formed in the center of the stud..... gay… this better be freeking worth it
    Turbo Rotories… 60% of the time.... they work every time..

  • #73
    I just tried the welding trick on a head off of the car. Guess what: it didn't work. I cleaned everything up nice with a mild grit and then acetone'd everything up. Held the nut in place, welded a nice puddle to get it together. Pop, snaps right off every time. Tried like 5 or 6 times. Just thought you would like to know…

  • #74
    try an arc welder with 1/8 or 3/16 high nickel or stainless rod at a fairly high heat and hold it there for a second or two. then let it cool down for an hour or two and turn the rod.

    my uncle has been repairing broken manifold studs on tractors and heavy duty landscaping equipment for 25+ years and says this is the only way he bothers doing it now.

    left hand bits break.
    ez-outs break or slip, then you cant size up anymore.
    welding with mig barely works.

    the heat from the weld right onto the bolt that causes the bolt to expand and breaks the bond. you may kill some threads in the process but you can always retap and there is more than enough thread to hold a new stud on anyway.

  • #75
    yea all I've got is a MIG at that shop and a TIG at home, no arcy-sparky. Welp, it is my machinists problem now.